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Find out how Africa's intriguing kingdom won over one mom and her toddler with its kid-friendliness, remarkable people, and endlessly fascinating culture.

Morocco is one of the most engaging and satisfying family destinations we know. The country's timeless culture, enduring traditions, and chic French mannerisms combine for a stunning travel experience. To children, Morocco offers a land of contrasts. Avenues are crowded with Mercedes, horse-drawn carts, and the occasional camel. Moroccan kids in leggings or blue jeans are walked to school by veiled moms in caftans and babouches slippers. Children spend days at work, weaving rugs or hammering copper tajines (couscous pots), or reverently studying the Q'uran in centuries-old medrassah (Islamic schools).

When I was assigned to do a story on exotic Morocco for Condé Nast Traveler, it seemed so far from our child-proof home that I was uneasy about traveling there with my 15 month-old son. In fact, the capital of Casablanca is quite near, only a 6½-hour, non-stop flight from New York City. I was intrigued by Bogart and Bacall's film, but not enough to base my trip there. I knew that the modern beach resorts at Tangier or Agadir would be easiest with a toddler. But this was my story, so I followed my own interests, and begged Royal Air Maroc, "Take me to the Kasbah."

Kasbah of Marrakech

In less than an hour's flight from Casablanca, we landed in the dusty pink kasbah, or fortified city, of Marrakech. (Note: this is the French spelling, English-speakers often use Marrakesh but you won't see street signs written that way.)  My son, suddenly over his jet-lag grumpiness, played with a guest's puppy in the plush, Art Deco lobby of the celebrated Hotel La Mamounia (212/24-388600; closed for renovation till spring 2009) while I registered. He explored ornately-tiled fountains, nooks, and crannies in the fragrant gardens outside our room, igniting smiles from the grounds keepers. By the next morning, the entire hotel staff warmly greeted him with "Bonjour, Monsieur Regan!"

Marrakech has much to offer. Just steps from the city's fortified walls a family of camels waited for hire. As much as he disliked the swaying motion of his 10-minute ride, Regan loved stroking the silken curls of Aazia, a 40-day-old camel cub about his mom's height. And he was immediately comfortable with the huge horse and uniformed coachman who took us on a carriage tour through the city's stone-walled Kasbah. Travelers with older children will want to stop in at the medina's Ben Youssef Medersa (or medrassah, an Islamic school) and the El Bahia Palace, a 19th-century palace that will give everyone a feel for what it was like to attend the sultan and care for four wives and dozens of others in a harem.

During a day trip to the scenic Ourika Valley, our driver (arranged by the hotel's concierge) stopped a passing shepherd so we could pet his flock of sheep. When we reached the weekly souk (market) in the baked clay village of Erghmat, a spirited, noisy donkey auction was in progress. My family found "pets" everywhere. Instead of being bored while I shopped for kilim rugs, Regan played with the carpet factory's house tortoise who had just come out of hibernation.

Marrakech's bustling square, the Jamaa El Fna, does boast agile acrobats and colorfully costumed theater groups, but it's the trained monkeys and charmed snakes that intrigue children and terrify Moms. Fortunately, our ace guide A. Bouskri Mohammed simultaneously lectured and kept young touts away so that we could linger over many performances and shopping opportunities.