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Moncton, New Brunswick
Among the Atlantic Provinces in Canada, New Brunswick has always been a bit of a mystery to me. I have flown over it many times, rode the train through its northern, central and southern reaches and driven through it, yet never spent any actual time visiting this province, until recently. Before last year, there was little, if any, direct transportation to anywhere in New Brunswick from the New York City area, but this has changed since Continental Airlines (800/523-3273) began daily non-stop service to and from Newark Airport (affording connections from many points in the United States) to Moncton, New Brunswick.
Happily, I found myself on that flight recently. It was a two-hour journey to a wonderful destination filled with an unbeatable mix of scenic beauty, natural attractions, historical venues, fabulous dining for all ages, and some of the most hospitable people on the planet. Located at the eastern end of New Brunswick, nestled about 15 miles from the Northumberland Strait, and about 30 miles from the Fundy Coast, Moncton affords some unusual beach experiences not available in many other places. The best time to visit is between the beginning of June and the middle of August as many of the attractions listed here are either not open at other times of the year, or have limited viewing hours.
While my itinerary was one of the many that you can follow, some additional research factoring in family likes and dislikes will provide all of you with a visit to remember.
After the flight, landing in Moncton's compact but comfortable airport, our group was whisked to a wonderful Bed and Breakfast, the Little Shemogue Country Inn (506/538-2320). Hosted by Klaus and Petra Sudbrack, this wonderful 9-room inn had country style, but all the modern conveniences and excellent food, and is well suited for families with tweens and teen-agers.
The inn is close to the Northumberland Strait, in fact, close enough to view aquatic and bird life up close and personal steps from your room. Need I say that a good night's sleep will be enjoyed by all? But, a vacation isn't about rest as much as it is about new experiences....
Exploring History
After a scenic ride through wide-open spaces dotted with houses and little else, we arrived at Fort Beausejour (506/364-5080). This Canadian National Historic Site commemorates the fort’s role in the struggles that the English had first against France, and then later the American Colonies. Originally built by the French in 1751, the English captured the fort four years later. In 1776, the Americans tried to take the fort, but failed. Eventually, it was abandoned in 1835, and became a National Historic Site in 1926. Built on a hill, it offers an excellent observation post to view the surrounding countryside, Nova Scotia a few miles away, and the Cumberland Basin within a stone's throw. Quiet, yet unforgettable.
Nearby in Memramcook, is Monument Lefebvre (506/758-9808). This former campus of St. Joseph's College was the first French-language institution to grant degrees in Atlantic Canada. Named for Father Lefebvre, the founder of St. Joseph's, the exhibit building is all about the rich history of Acadian culture in Atlantic Canada from the 18th to the 21st centuries, and this National Historic site has many exhibits and presentations for the whole family. We learned that the Acadians, descendants of the French, had settled in Atlantic Canada as early as 1604, and were largely deported to Louisiana by the British in 1755. Many, over time, came back to their roots. The growth of Acadian culture was cemented by a conference held at this site in 1881. As New Brunswick has the largest Acadian population among the provinces, the placement of the site here is significant.
After a morning like this, any family will get quite hungry from all the walking around. Relief comes at the Bell Inn Restaurant (506/379-2580) in Dorchester. This town is home to many folks named Keillor, and, rumor has it that a certain Garrison Keillor, host of public radio’s “A Prairie Home Companion,” has visited this place for family reunions. Nonetheless, the Bell Inn offers well-cooked food and delicious desserts in a tea-room setting, light years ahead of any fast-food emporium. This Provincial Historic Site is most assuredly worth a detour on anyone's itinerary, especially for lobster rolls and delicious pies.
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