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Cantons De L'Est And Jouvence Resort, Quebec
The lead dog, one of six furry, super-charged delights, looked over his shoulder, his stunning blue eyes asking if there was some mistake. Did I really know what I was doing?, he seemed to ask. Who was this guy from the city yelling in bad French? The other dogs looked to him for reassurance, which they apparently got.
The mother in the next sled tightly wrapped her arms around her daughter, who was laughing with pure joy, and snuggled more deeply into the pile of fur pelts. And we were off in a blur of howling huskies and a shower of snow.
I drove the one sled, the "Musher" or chief sledder drove the mother and daughter (thankfully!), and we wound our way through a pristine forest covered with newly fallen snow. There was no sound at all except the sharp breaths of the dogs and the hum of the runners on the velvet snow. The air was pure; the stillness a joy.
Québec's Eastern Townships
These are the Cantons De L'Est, as the region is called in French. To us Anglophones, they are the Eastern Townships of Québec, about 80 towns and hamlets with populations ranging from 750 to maybe 3,000. The region is blessed with some of the best preserved, least commercial trails, lakes, mountains, streams and authentic villages in North America, and it's a wonderful destination for families.
And there's another compelling reason that makes coming here so desirable: its accessibility. This region is only a 4.5 hour drive from Boston, a straight shot on Route 91 North, through Vermont, and over the border. From Montreal's Dorval airport, it's about an hour's drive east. Because the population here is 94% French Canadian, vacationing in the Townships provides a linguistic and cultural experience that's fun and enriching especially for families interested in having their kids exposed to other ways of life without having to cross an ocean.
Jouvence, A Special Family Resort
Every so often I come upon a place that makes for a special family experience, a place where all the elements come together uniquely: value, great customer service, terrific activities, beauty, a buck that goes very far, and a different culture. This is Jouvence (800/567-3134), an all-inclusive family resort located in the Eastern Townships. I visited the Jouvence resort in winter, a perfect Currier & Ives print if ever there was one. But it is a family resort for all seasons.
In the heart of Mont Orford National Park, surrounded by towering fir trees, and dusted with shiny white birches and maples waiting to display their autumn beauty, the resort is actually a tiny village. Twenty or so buildings stretch along the shore of Lake Stukley, or sit back among the "murmuring pine and the hemlock." Some buildings, like the dining hall, have a distinct Scandinavian feel to them with lots of glass, blond wood and loft-like spaces that bring the outdoors in, creating an airy sense of space and light.
Meals are served buffet style, with coffees from around the world, piles of fresh fruit, and such creative culinary touches as stuffed grape leaves, artichoke salads, leg of lamb and tureens of special soups. The breads are always fresh, and the service, though it's a buffet, is attentive. Watchful staff members are ready to clear away used dishes or provide an extra touch to the dining experience. There is an inventive kids' menu, too. I saw no ill-mannered behavior - no families yelling in exasperation or frustration.
Families stay in cottages of sorts, some with three bedrooms or more, and all have small refrigerators. But mostly they're out and doing. The activities are age-sensitive and as in the best resorts, staff members are exceptionally well trained. Some of the activities are free:canoes, kayak, snowshoes, etc., while others carry a fee: mountain climbing; archery; interpretive hiking; sailing. There are evening activities, too, including dancing and the Jouvence Casino.
There's also a daycare center where, from what I saw, the kids were bonding pretty immediately with each other. The language differences, far from being a barrier, encouraged everyone to figure out how best to share and communicate, creating special moments.
Jouvence has a great deal to offer, but more than anything, it offers kindness and sensitivity that bring out the best in the guests and staff.
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