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Charlevoix And Le Manoir Richelieu, Quebec

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Charlevoix is that rarity, a region of Canada's Québec province which offers the Laurentian mountains, a dramatic shoreline on the St. Lawrence Seaway and a warm welcome -- combined -- at an isolated, family-friendly, luxurious country hotel.

Living in America's gritty urban Northeast, we sometimes forget we are surrounded by majestic mountains, the Atlantic shoreline and charming New England towns, albeit crowded ones.  Such population density makes it rare to find a comfortable family getaway where the region's natural beauty is prized above its man-made attractions.

What lured us to the picturesque region of Charlevoix was its designation as a UNESCO World Biosphere, an honor earned by its pristine environment and sustainable development. Scientists believe this unique habitat is the result of a giant meteorite which struck the St. Lawrence River valley more than 150 million years ago. 

Another sign of impact is the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park (418/235-4703) just offshore, a summer destination for families who join day cruises or Zodiac tours to watch the seals and Beluga, minke, finback and other  whales which migrate from May to October.

The region's stark, rugged landscape, appreciated year-round in its many parks, is also a large part of its family appeal.

The Parc des Grand-Jardins, noted for its striking Arctic terrain and wildlife, is open for cross country skiing in winter, and hiking and picnicking year-round. The Parc des Hautes-Gorges, whose steep granite cliffs soar above the Rivière Malbaie to rival the Grand Canyon, welcomes visitors only in summer, when several local outfitters offer whitewater rafting and sea kayaking.

On a winter road trip with our 10-year-old and his best friend, we discovered scenery galore along the coastal Scenic Rte. 362 which begins in the town of Baie Saint-Paul. This is an old town of fishermen's homes and art galleries, clustered in the shadow of an enormous Franciscan Monatery. We arrived mid-day, and pulled over on the coast road to do as the locals:  walk on the St. Lawrence riverbed at low tide and look for mussels.

 
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