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Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, home of Dollywood and other unique attractions, welcomes urban and country families.

Gateway To The Great Smoky Mountains

First settled late in the 18th century by mountaineers from the Carolinas, Pigeon Forge has always been closely tied to its rolling, towering next-door neighbor, the Great Smoky Mountains. President Coolidge created America's most visited national park, Great Smoky Mountains National Park (865/436-1200) and ever since 1926, travelers have been coming through Pigeon Forge as a means of gaining access to the beautiful land preserve, which lies just a few miles outside of town.

When tourism in the region really began booming 20 years ago, Pigeon Forge took on a life all its own. And what a life. Down-home country flavor is what it's all about, and a glitzy, airbrushed, neon-lit blanket is thrown proudly over all of it. But after scraping just below the somewhat tacky surface of Pigeon Forge, I discovered a thriving respect for simple living, good times, patriotism, and a refreshing sense of Americana.

Forgetting for a moment the main draws in Pigeon Forge - the theme park, the national park, and the shopping - I found simply wandering up and down the Parkway (the main drag that runs through town) was an adventure unto itself. Lined with water slides, go-cart tracks, arcades, and souvenir stands, there is plenty of mindless fun to keep the kids amused for awhile. Weekends, the real spectacle sets in. Locals from all over the county drive in on the Parkway, pull off and park on the shoulder, bring out folding chairs (and maybe a grill) and simply sit and watch the traffic pass. It's quite a scene. Many folks arrive in beautifully maintained classic cars, and participate in the car shows that are often organized by the town. But classic cars or not, this seemed to be a weekly ritual that would never skip a beat. Rain or shine, I imagine if you visit Pigeon Forge during the summer, there will be at least a few locals to welcome you from the side of the road, country music blaring from their portable radios.

Choice Tunes

Country music, as a matter of fact, is one of the predominant themes in Pigeon Forge. A bit farther on down the Parkway sit a number of large, ornate theaters, each housing resident musical performers with varying degrees of notoriety who entertain almost every night, all year long. I've never been a fan of country music myself, and so before entering the Louise Mandrell Theater (865/453-3534, 800/768-1170) (you know Louise--she used to perform with her big sister Barbara on network television), I promised myself I would keep an open mind.

To my surprise, the show was a blast! Louise fiddles until smoke rises up from the instrument (literally), dances like a woman half her age, plays the accordion, climbs rope netting in military fatigues, strums the guitar, tells jokes, plays the trumpet, and performs magic tricks. Country and gospel music dominate the performance, but there is a little bit for everyone (unless you're into heavy metal). To be honest, Mandrell's tribute to American veterans went a little too far for me by flashing actual war footage on a backdrop while she sang a patriotic hymn, but the older generations who were well represented in the audience seemed to be moved.

Next door to Mandrell's theater is the Alabama Grill (865/908-8777), one of a number of celebrity theme restaurants in Pigeon Forge. Named after the popular country band that created the eatery, not for themselves, "but for all of country music," the large dining room is accentuated by a small stage, where waiters and waitresses periodically drop their trays to sing along with one of the concert videos that play continuously. Like a Hardrock Café devoted entirely to the southern side of popular music, the walls are adorned with photographs and memorabilia from countless acts (many of which I had never heard of, to the shock of my press companions). If you stop by, don't miss one of Elvis' classic jump suits displayed proudly near the entrance. By the way, the food is fine.

One restaurant that deserves particular mention was, at first glance, a unique departure from the Pigeon Forge norm. However, once seated, I found that the departure hadn't been completely realized; this was all for the better, though. Tastebuds Café (865/428-9781), a cozy, candlelit establishment that serves tasty continental cuisine, was almost a legitimately classy dining experience. Halfway through the meal, though, the Maitre' D whipped out a cordless microphone and began doing Elvis impersonations. He also encouraged the entire dining room to greet those who entered with a boisterous "Hello!" In any case, all had a decidedly good time. Also, Tastebuds permits patrons to brown-bag their own wine. Otherwise, Pigeon Forge is a dry town.