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Whether traveling by bike, train or car, FTF tells you the must-sees in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania and how the city has evolved over the past generation.

Someone switched cities while I wasn't looking. Don't worry - the city of three rivers is still the familiar Pennsylvania Steeltown of the Penguins, Pirates and Steelers but some might be tempted to ask its residents, "OK, who are you and what have you done with Pittsburgh?"

Not only has the once-industrial city quietly evolved into a visitor's cultural and recreational Mecca for families, but it has done so gracefully and rapidly without losing its roots. The Heinz and Carnegie families would certainly be impressed with what the people have wrought, from a revitalized downtown to contemporary centers of cultural arts, academia and the sciences as well as spectacular new stadiums, parks and vistas.

A Kidsburgh Weekend

I've noted a trend to help discover family destinations closer to home by vehicle. Those of you in the eastern states might be surprised to find Pittsburgh within 500 miles of more than one half of the U. S. population and makes the perfect destination for a weekend family getaway. In fact, the city's Convention and Visitors Bureau (412/281-7771) promotes a very affordable discovery package called "Kidsburgh" which can be viewed and purchased entirely on their very slick web site.

Spring for one or two nights to compensate for The Kid Factor. We found the package itinerary is a tad ambitious and rigorous for parents who know that precision scheduling and children are not necessarily compatible. The additional investment will yield more leisurely, vacation-like results.

The New Downtown

For strategic reasons, the best place to stay is at one of the several downtown hotels. I recommend the competitively priced Ramada Plaza Suites, one of the choices in the Kidsburgh package, because of the available kitchenettes and it's central location equidistant to numerous attractions. Again, The Kid Factor prevails here - the convenience of affordable in-room dining cannot be understated, especially in the mornings.

Much of downtown is very suitable for walking tours and is teeming with shopping, dining and cultural attractions. Although sites are accessible by short bus and metro jaunts, use the bus system with caution for more outlying destinations and on weekends. The schedule and stops are less than reliable - by experience and the bus drivers' own admission. When visiting by car, save time by driving - parking and traffic are not formidable by big city standards.

Three Rivers City

Downtown exploration can also be a stepping stone to the appreciation of the vast riverfront, parks and paths, which offer a plethora of hiking, biking, rollerblading and kayaking opportunities. Bicycling the city's riverfront greenways is (you can arrange rentals at Golden Triangle Bike Rentals (412/600 0675) one of the most memorable ways to experience the regional attractions. If embarking on a downtown adventure, include a stop at the Point State Park (101 Commonwealth Place, 412/471-0235) a national historic landmark for the strategic role it played during the French and Indian War. At the point where the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers meet to form the Ohio, Pittsburgh's Golden Triangle has a fabulous water fountain, paved promenades along the riverfront, overlooks with dramatic views of the city, busy waterways and impressive hillside scenery.

At downtown's edge, the famous Strip District lays in wait leading you to ethnic food markets, specialty shops and antique stores. A great place to have a breakfast or lunch - try DeLuca's Restaurant (412/566-2195)- this area closes down in the afternoon, so get there in the morning. Include a stop at the Heinz History Center to learn how H. J. Heinz parlayed a tomato patch into a multi-billion dollar food business and why the nostalgic ketchup bottle label shape is seen even on State Highway markers. Don't miss the Heinz 57 product marketing exhibit.