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A family travel specialist visits the Eternal City with kids in tow, and shares what he's learned from years of travel planning with his own and other families.

Rome is a city of infinite variety and contrast. History lies about one in a virtual embarrassment of riches. Imperial Roman columns jostle Renaissance palaces, Medieval churches stand alongside 19th century monuments, Fascist boulevards designed by Mussolini cut through street plans laid out by Roman consuls and everywhere the modern city hums with life. Older children will love this contrast and recognize the world famed monuments from the Colosseum to the Vatican; younger children will find a city with parks and puppets, and all children will love a city that loves children. The Italians adore kids; they are never unwelcome in restaurants or museums. Italian waiters will spend as much time flirting with 6 year olds as they will with teenagers and, best of all, you will find that you are more welcome as part of a family than you ever would be as a plain tourist. 

Orientation

Rome is a great city for walking. In most of the Centro Storico - the Historic Center - it is really your only option as cars are banned in the small streets. This is great for pedestrians who would otherwise be avoiding the infamous Italian drivers. The Campo Marzo or Campus Martius, the area bounded by the curve of the Tiber on the west and north, the ancient Forum on the south and the shopping area of the Via del Corso on the east, are made for strolling. The Romans are out at all hours except the heat of the midday when the city shuts down for a well-needed siesta. Areas around the Piazza Navona, the Pantheon and the traditional Ghetto are a good place to start and, incidentally, a good place for a hotel.

The Piazza Navona is a major center of Roman life. It is laid out on an ancient race course and still shows the characteristic oval shape. The square has beautiful fountains, a toy store at either end, cafes surrounding it and hundreds of street artisans from portrait painters to trinket salesmen to gypsy children singing for their supper. Horse drawn carriages line up to take riders. During the Christmas season the square becomes the main market for toys, decorations, ornaments, candies, etc. Your children will love the street life as much as you do. A short few blocks away is the Piazza Rotonda the site of the Pantheon, the most intact building of ancient Rome. This square is also full of life, though of a slightly wilder sort as it is the main hang out for punks and gay men. The Pantheon is not to be missed as the interior, now converted to a church, still is virtually unchanged from 2,000 years ago save for the addition of a few saints and crucifixes.

Rome is a city of fountains, something that always appeals to the youngest children. The one in the Piazza Navona, mentioned already, represents the four great rivers of the world. The Trevi Fountain, famed for the "Three Coins" and "La Dolce Vita" is a fantastic pile of gods and horses and mythical creatures. The fountain, designed by Bernini, literally grows from the buildings behind it. All of the fountains in this old part of the city are fed from an aqueduct built by Agrippa - also the builder of the Pantheon - the son in law of Augustus. The water, known as the Acqua Vergine or Virgin's Water, is considered the best in Rome and absolutely essential for a perfect espresso.

Some of the most wonderful remnants of this Roman city planning are the Fontanella or Little Fountains. Throughout the Centro Storico one can find small pipes emerging from the walls of old buildings with water squirting out of the end. If you put your finger over the end water will squirt from a hole in the top - 2,000 year old drinking fountains and the water is cold and delicious. Other attractive fountains are found in the Piazza di Spagna - this one designed as a small boat, in front of the Vatican and in the Piazza Mattei.

Great Sights

There are many good guidebooks to Rome such as the Michelin Green and the Blue Guide. There is no shortage of things to see, but this summarizes those items of particular interest to children. Classical Rome is concentrated in a fairly small area. The Roman Forum ( 39/66990110) is the center of the ancient world and one of the most interesting places for adults. It is, however, a trifle overwhelming for children. The ruins are all jumbled together and very little is at all complete. It can also be extremely hot in summer and without any shade.

The Colosseum, immediately adjoining, is just the opposite. Children can easily imagine the gladiators and the crowds. The floor of the great stadium is missing and one can see into the chambers where wild animals were held prior to the games. Children can climb the stands and look into the remains of the imperial box - every child knows "Thumbs up, thumbs down." Across the Tiber, at the approach to the Vatican, is the Castle of Sant'Angelo. This huge, cylindrical tower started life as the tomb of the Emperor Hadrian. Later the Popes made it their private retreat. The ages intermingle to produce a great adventure. There are secret passages for the Popes to hide in, huge cutaways to pour oil onto the heads of enemies advancing up the long circular internal ramp, a collection of armor and, surmounting it all, a giant statue of the Archangel Michael with his sword.

The Vatican is its own country, the smallest in the world, a fact that always amazes children. It is really two full days worth of touring and if you can not give it that, then leave out part of it. If you try to see it all in one day you will all regret it. St. Peter's and the square in front are a world in themselves. This church, one of the world's largest, is not just huge, but beautiful. The world's greatest architects and artists created a masterwork for the Popes. Children will be interested in the treasure rooms. These include items such as the cloak of Charlemagne. Among the most lavish treasures are the jewel encrusted reliquaries made to hold splinters from the cross or the bones of saints. The church is filled with what appear to be huge Renaissance paintings that are actually mosaics. These are of such detail that one must approach to a few inches away to see the tiny pieces of glass and stone - the ultimate mosaics.

For the morbid aspect, so beloved to young boys, nothing can match the bodies of Popes, bishops, etc. covered in silver and gold and lying in crystal sarcophagi around the edges of the church. There is a stairway or an elevator that one can take to the main roof. From there one can look down over the shoulders the saints into the great square below. Older children and adults can walk from here to the summit of the dome. The climb is long, but worth it. As you near the top the walls bend in to make the circle. Once at the peak you look out over the whole of Rome and also into the private gardens of the Pope with elaborately clipped hedges, lakes and waterfalls. 

The Vatican Museums are a second day in themselves. Children can be prepared for much of the art in advance by looking at books at home before you go. Go first to the gift stores and let your child pick out post cards that she likes and can then search for in the museums. Here is the Sistine Chapel (39/669883333). The recently cleaned frescoes are stunning. If you saw them before the restoration, the difference wll amaze you. Children are fascinated with the story of Michelangelo's three years on his back painting this labor. The museum - actually several museums -is filled with the papal collections of centuries. Children will like certain highlights such as the Laocoön. One room of the Pio-Clementine museum is dedicated to Greek and Roman statuary of animals. These wonderfully naturalistic portraits of sheep or alligators or pet dogs are a hit with children. While in the museums it is fun to shop or eat in the cafe in hope of getting Vatican money in change. The Vatican accepts Italian money, but also mints its own with portraits of the Pope - a great souvenir among any traveling child's money collection.