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The Azores
The Azores are isolated. Even the Portuguese, who own these nine gems located 900 kms off their coast, think of the islands as foreign. Yet hundreds of Azoreans living in the United States return every summer to the land of their childhood. They go home to bask in the warmth of friends and family, and to teach their children some of the centuries-old traditions that still form the basis of their society. It is a trip all children can learn from. Each island is different from its sister islands, but no less beautiful. Choosing which one to visit is difficult, but for convenience's sake, the islands of Faial, Pico and São Jorge are more easily reached by short ferry rides.
The Mariner's Island: Faial
Faial's port city, Horta, is a mecca for intrepid trans-Atlantic sailors drawn by the beauty of the land and the activity at Peter's Cafe Sport, the social hub of Horta. Opened on Christmas Day 1918, the cafe is now run by orginals owner José "Peter" Azevedo's son who extends a warm welcome with inexpensive beers, good food and good conversation late into the night. You can exchange money here or send a fax, buy a gift, make arrangements to go sport fishing or whale watching. The Cafe also contains a small museum that features a sperm-whale's teeth which have been engraved by whalers.
Horta's black-and-white-cobbled streets were long ago laid by hand in intricate patterns. The white-washed, Mediterranean architecture is interestingly and incongruously highlighted with typical New England-style touches -- widow's walks and wooden shutters, leftover from vibrant and successful whaling days.
Petite Pico
Take an early morning ferry to Pico, and you'll feel as though you're entering a world in miniature, built up by whalers, farmers and fishermen. You'll share the short ride with local farmers and their baskets brimming with fresh tomatoes, potatoes and other vegetables, and eavesdrop on the matriarchs of the island exchanging the news and gossip.
In Pico, explore the rugged countryside, tiny fields sewn together with black volcanic fences, which create a patchwork of green and black dominated by the island's namesake, a volcanic peak rising straight up 7,750 feet. If you dare (and you're fit), hike it for impressive views of the ocean and Pico's fabled vineyards, whose wines once graced the tables of the Russian court.
At the end of the day, reward yourself. There are authentic and very reasonably priced restaurants in the capitol, Madalena. Try the polvo guisado em vinho (octopus stewed in wine), a local wine and some fresh bread, and watch the European sun-seekers streaking by in their bikinis.
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