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August in Sardegna is Worth the Crowds
Last summer, in the middle of August, we went for 10 days to the northwestern coast of Sardegna (Sardinia for English speakers.) Sardegna is Italy's second biggest island after Sicilia, located in the middle of the Tyrrenian Sea to the west of the mainland.
Throughout history it has been an agriculturally rich island, and a favorite target of many conquerors. The island is now divided into four different provinces named for their largest cities. Cagliari (written as CA), Nuoro (NU), Oristano (OR) and Sassari (SS) are in turn comprised of smaller regions characterized by their own traditions and even their own dialect.
Costa Smeralda
Sardegna is most famous among travelers for one of its stretches of coastline: the Costa Smeralda, or Emerald Coast, in the northeast Sassari district. It offers pristine beaches, the perfect mistral winds from the northwest for sailing and windsurfing, and very high prices for everything.
You may read that Sardegna has a very long season, from April to November. The truth is that any part of the coastline can be very windy and cold, so if you want to enjoy the water, the best time to be there is between June and September.
The initial anxiety of traveling to a very popular Italian seaside spot during the most popular time of the year was both confirmed and proved wrong during the first couple of days we were there. The place was filled to capacity and it was wonderful. In August, Sardegna is crowded mostly with Italians and their extensive families, all on motorscooters, all on vacation. The food markets, of course, are open all day and part of the night, and the weather is at its best: sunny, dry and hot.
Our family group consisted of two boys (ages 10 and 13) and four adults. Our son, Luca, stayed with my sister and her family in a small two-bedroom apartment belonging to her husband, a native, in the Old City of Alghero in the northwest of the island. My husband Harvey and I stayed nearby in the lovely, highly recommended Hotel dei Pini at the Bombarde (pini means pine trees and the nickname Bombarde, the myth goes, originates from fishermen using underwater bombs to catch fish on that beach.) The hotel stands in a wonderful forest by the sea, and has a private beach, tennis courts, restaurant, boat and mountain bike rentals.
The nearest main town is Alghero, which has its own airport and is about 40 minutes from the nearest port, Porto Torres. All kinds of ferries and fast ships dock there daily; it takes six or 12 hours from Genova depending on your ship.
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