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This traveler is surprised at just how "family" the appeal of Argentina's tango capital really is... and how cheap.

When family vacation planners think of Argentina, the image that arises could be the tango, which was threatened with being banned in the early part of the 20th century. Or the image may be that of revolutionary Che Guevara, who was born here. Or it may be how those South Americans often don't eat dinner till midnight, then dance till dawn. How in the world do they do it?

Hardly a family-oriented place, right? But at the same time, Argentina has a lot of family attractions that include not only historical buildings but also zoos and many other options. Even the shopping malls can be attractive to the youngest members of the family because they often have children's activity areas including rides and arcades. The country has made a committed effort in recent years to attract tourists, and some attractions have followed suit.

Families will appreciate that inexpensive food and lodging can be easily found. And it's fun as well as great value; the Hilton Buenos Aires (54-11/4891-0000; Macacha Guemes 351, Buenos Aires C1106BKG) each summer has teamed up with Mattel to offer young travelers rooms themed to Barbie and Hot Wheels. In fact, the first-ever Barbie Room in the world debuted in Buenos Aires in 2004. Prices for the double room have been about US$150 per night, including breakfast.

At the same time, families visiting Argentina can know they are really in a foreign country. The country's real hub --where one third of its 39 million inhabitants live -- is Buenos Aires. The capital of Argentina, it's sometimes called the most European city in South America. With its mixture of culture, cafes, fine food and historical buildings, it is even compared to Paris. Its name in Spanish means “fair winds.” But it is not the wind that captures the imagination of visitors. An initial impression: this is a city that never seems to sleep. Dinner is often taken at midnight. People fill the streets in the early a.m. hours. And in combination with charming Salta in the north, the family who visits "BA" can feel they have begun to understand the country.

BA's Top Sights to See

As always, a good way to start to see the city is a bus tour. But keep in mind not all tours are in English; some require translation. The Buenos Aires City Tour has morning and afternoon offerings, in English.  Unfortunately, it is not a hop-on, hop-off tour. The three-hour tour is also somewhat skimpy on the grave of Evita Peron, which is a must for any visitor here but otherwise, it covers such highlights as the magnificent Recoleta and Palermo neighborhoods, and the red plush-rich Colon Theatre (54-11/4378-7344), one of the five most important opera theaters in the world.

Take a walk through the Plaza de Mayo. It's known for its statuary, the rich furnishing of its hallways and its pink color, which local legend says was made by mixing whitewash with bull's blood. The Casa Rosada (54-11/4344-3802) is where the government's executive branch has offices. The president works here but lives elsewhere. The balcony facing Plaza de Mayo has served as a presidential podium. Free guided tours can be arranged at the Palacio del Congreso or Congress Hall. Only some of the tours are in English, so you might want to check.

There's a non-profit greeting program allowing tourists to explore the city with a local resident called Cicerones de Buenos Aires (54-11/4431-9892). Volunteer guides will give visitors a different and non-touristy view of the city. There are also three-hour bicycle tours (54-11/4311-5199) given in English and Spanish.

How can you go to Argentina without seeing Museo Evita (54-11/4807-0306; Lafinur 2988, Buenos Aires C1425) Ciudad de Buenos Aires, Argentina)? Perhaps equally despised and loved, Eva Durate de Peron (Evita) led a short and turbulent life that is remembered here. Her humble origins that led to life as a B-list actress before marriage to the dictator Peron are documented at the museum. A darkened screening room shows intense footage of the thousands of mourners lined up to see her body. Her actual grave is in the Cemetery of the Recoleta, which would be fascinating even without her because it is a collection of mausoleums stretched across streets and allies, leading some to compare it to a miniature city.

Taking an entirely different direction, you can easily spend a day at the Buenos Aires Zoo (54-11/4011-9900; Sarmiento y Av. Las Heras), which was created more than 100 years ago. There are a few surprises in the animals found here such as a rare albino tiger and indigenous monkeys known to perform lewd acts. Balancing that out is a petting zoo. And in a surprise, the zoo has a lot of artwork, including an entrance that is a reproduction of the “Triumph Arch of Tito” found in Rome.