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In search of adventure, s single father and two teens explore Costa Rica.

Over the past decade, Costa Rica has emerged as the standout eco-adventure destination in the Americas. From its rugged, jungle and beach-lined Pacific coastline to its relaxed, funky Caribbean coast; from active volcanoes to mist-steeped cloud forests, to mile after mile of untouched virgin jungle ripe for exploration, Costa Rica has it all.

Albert Davis, a single father of two teens, asked for FTF's advice in planning a trip to the "Rich Coast," and we did some research of our own. After looking into various all-inclusive tour packages around the country, we focused on the south western Osa Peninsula, which hosts the most remote and unspoiled rainforest Costa Rica has to offer. Drake Bay, a tiny town untouched by the commercial development that has engulfed better known regions, is home to the Drake Bay Wilderness Resort ( US 561/371-3437; 561/337-8004), where basic amenities are a sure thing, service is more than adequate, and the guides excel.

Five Days at Drake Bay

The weather was cool, and rather comfortable, considering how close to the equator we were, comfortably ensconced in our room at the Hotel LeBergerac in San Jose, the metropolitan capital. Our two-legged flight from the States was uneventful--a good thing. We picked up water, nuts, wine and Kentucky Fried Chicken and were all set for our first night in Costa Rica. Our private garden was lovely, with a surprising variety of tropical plants. We even had a visit from a humming bird. The gentle pitter-patter of rain could be heard, and ended up being an appropriate theme during the trip.

Lilian Vega, of Rain Forest Tours (506/296-7074; www.costaricabureau.com) had arranged all of our travel plans within Costa Rica, and we couldn't have done it without her. One thing that even she had no control over, though, was poor visibility the next morning that kept us on the ground until around 10 am, when we set out in a four-seat plane for a 50-minute flight to The Drake Bay Wilderness Resort. We hoped the resort would provide access to the natural tropic environment we had come to Costa Rica for.

We were met at a grass landing strip by Herbert, owner of the resort, and his rickety jeep. Bumping down a gravel road, we drove through two small streams, finally stopping near Drake Bay Beach. Herbert said quietly, "You'll probably want to roll your pants up to get on the boat." We climbed out of the jeep as rain started to fall. I struggled to get my poncho on, which had turned partially inside out (to my companion's amusement). From across the water we saw a small skiff with an outboard motor heading in our direction. Wading through warm water, climbing on the boat, motoring across the bay with wind and drizzle blowing on our faces, we knew the adventure had really begun.

Climbing out of the boat at the resort's grounds, Herbert pointed out a defender plant, which collapses when touched, exposing a thorn. Our first stop upon arrival was the dining room, where cinnamon rolls, fruit, coffee and juice were waiting for us. We met Manuel, our guide for the week, and after settling in to our room we took off for San Josesita State Park. Back on the skiff, we cruised about 40 minutes along the coastline. As we hiked, Manuel pointed out a variety of plants and fruits that we came across. I ate a bite of star fruit plucked off a tree. Near the river we met Riccardo, who lived by himself in a small hut. He let us use his bathroom, and we brought some handcrafted jewelry from him. Upon reaching the Rio Claro, my companion and I dove right in. What a great swim in the middle of the jungle! Eventually we returned to the park entrance. What a beautiful setting for a picnic; the Pacific at our feet and lush jungle at our backs.

On the way back to the resort, we came across a school of dolphins that swam along with our boat. My kids would have loved it! A moment later we spotted a flying fish. Manuel explained that the dolphins chase the fish, which fly out of the water to avoid their pursuers, only to be attacked by birds. By the time we were back on land, it was raining again. We sipped Margaritas at the bar, and I had the best nap of my life.

The following day we took a short boat ride, to go horseback riding. We met a man on a beach with four horses waiting for us, and after saddling up, we set off, a warm drizzle falling on our backs. After a while the trail veered inland through a marsh. What would have been impassable on foot, the horses managed to handle. At one point a branch caught my poncho and wouldn't let go. While my horse continued to move forward, I was held back by the insistent grasp. For a horrifying instant, I faced the prospect of leaving my horse's back and plunging backwards, four feet down into the light brown gruel below. Luckily, the poncho tore, and I was released.

We approached a brook swollen with rain. The horses calmly stepped into the swift current, and before long were immersed up to their bellies. I began to appreciate the value of a horse in these parts. Manuel managed to spot a few rare birds quite a distance away, but we missed them, as was often the case. We did notice white birds that seemed to hover about the cows that were grazing nearby. Our guide explained that they were egrets, which survived by eating flies and ticks off the cows' backs. A symbiotic relationship if ever there was one.