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Bahamas: Nassau And Paradise Island Guide
If you happen to be down Bahamas-way, chances are you're in Nassau, the main port of New Providence Island. This busy town, capital of the British ruled Commonwealth of the Bahama Islands, first came into tourist focus after Cuba was closed to Americans in the early 60s. Over time, the mojito bars and souvenir shops lost their charm, but in recent years, the government has cleaned Nassau up and the strains of calypso fill the air once again. The island's temperate climate, gentle breezes, aquamarine water, calm surf, and white sand beaches remain unbeatable. Coupled with cheap, quick flights from America's East Coast; a solid infrastructure; publicity from several MTV series and big budget blockbusters filmed here; and tighter security; friendly Nassau has reclaimed its tourism edge.
Exploring Nassau Town
Although most visitors come for the beach, any giveaway map will highlight the town's cultural and historic highlights: Victorian-era mansions, cathedrals, and the early 19th-century government buildings of Parliament Square make for fun day excursions. Multi-cultural Nassau -- discovered by Columbus in 1492 for the Spanish crown, ruled as a British colony since the mid-1600s, periodically overcome by pirates -- is especially popular with African American families.
Along the port promenade, know as Woodes Roger's Walk, is the Pompey Museum of Slavery and Emancipation, the former Vendue House where slaves arrivng from Africa were auctioned to New World masters. Look for the Queen's Staircase at the end of Elizabeth Avenue, formerly an escape route built by slaves to aid soldiers stationed at Fort Fincastle; the 65 steps lead to a wonderful overview of this pastel town. There's even an organized open-air hair-braiding salon where families can choose from among the many licensed beauticians who create one hair braid entwined with beads at a time.
Inland, Bay Street parallels the shore and is the main shopping street. The famed Straw Market (the original outdoor mall), which actually used to sell items made of straw, can be entered from Bay Street or the port walk. It's next to the site of the old Fort Nassau, now the classic British Colonial Hilton Nassau Hotel (242/322-3301; One Bay Street, Nassau, Bahamas N-7148) where Bond films "Thunderball" and "Never Say Never Again" were shot. In this Straw Market, you're much more likely to see knock-off Chanel and Fendi bags, Kate Spade wallets, pseudo Rolex watches, tin toys imported from Mexico and ugly rayon sundresses than straw baskets. But keep your eyes open for inexpensive mother-of-pearl shell jewelry, handmade batik fabrics, and fun coconut sculpture and you're sure to find a great souvenir.
Among the more unusual shops on Bay Street is the classic Linen Shop, where women can find beautiful lacework, table cloths and napkins, adorable veddy British (and veddy dressy) children's clothes, and a surprising variety of beautifully made gift items and crafts. We found one-stop-shopping at Tropic Traders for all the T-shirts, hammered-tin souvenirs, and plastic beach toys we could carry. The Tortuga Bakery and Retail Shop features those ubiquitous rum cakes packed in nifty pirate treasure map boxes but, in the interest of full disclosure, these scrumptious souvenirs actually originate in the Cayman Islands.
At Del Sol, kids will get a kick out of seeing all the clothing and toys that change color when exposed to sunlight -- that's right, Del Sol's specialty is selling Frisbees that are white in the store and bright purple on the beach, or polo shirts whose logos go from green to red when exposed to ultra-violet light. You can test this out yourself, because salespeople carry around blacklight fixtures. It's fun and the kids will be amazed. The men in your family may appreciate the styles at Bonneville Bones on Bay at the corner of George Streets. In addition to the usual tropical fare, this shop has a nice collection of linen Guayabera shirts (the classic square cut pleated shirt) made popular by Cuban superstars.
From here, take a few minutes to walk inland and admire the pastel stucco and wood-shingled cottages of the old Nassau. Then stroll back down to the modern Prince George Wharf to ogle visiting cruise ships, now moored in the sheltered harbor prized by Blackbeard and generations of pirates and sailors. The Bahamian government has done a classy redevelopment of this area, as well, so that all structures around the cruise port and nearby marina (the place to catch ferries to Paradies Island, all day on the half-hour) conform to the country's postcard-perfect traditional cottage style.
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