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St. Croix Of The U.S. Virgin Islands
St. Croix is the perfect destination for a tropical family vacation--and it's only a few hours from home. U.S. citizens don't even need a passport to visit the capital Christiansted, snorkel off the North Coast, wander old plantations, and play water sports. From Point Udall, the eastern-most point in the United States, to the western port of Frederiksted the island abounds with natural beauty, historic interest, cultural charm and activities for all ages.
To celebrate the new millennium, the St. Croix Landmark Society and the U.S. Virgin Islands Department of Tourism have developed the St. Croix Heritage Trail (340/772-0598). The superb new fold-out brochure and map is a trip in itself. (For a copy and other information contact the U.S.V.I. Department of Tourism ( 800/372-USVI).
You can rent a car and follow the map and signposts at your own pace. (Part of St. Croix's Danish heritage is driving on the left side of the road, but traffic is sparse and road surfaces are good.) Avis, Budget, Hertz and other agencies have desks at the airport, near the baggage claim. Plan to spend at least two days touring with the kids to do the island justice.
Or you can arrange a tour through your hotel concierge. An especially fun way is aboard an open-air safari bus, under the protection of its roof, with a knowledgeable local guide. We were fortunate to have the services of the expert and entertaining Sweeney of St. Croix Safari Tours (340/773-6700).
Start Your Tour In Christiansted
Most visitors arrive at the island's airport, which is currently undergoing a major renovation, though with minimal inconvenience for travelers. It's a quarter-hour drive into the capital, Christiansted, the prettiest port in the Caribbean.
The town is centered around a spacious waterfront square, the Christiansted National Historic Site, administered by the National Parks Service, all of it recently renovated and painted a warm yellow with dark green and white trim. (Open weekdays 8am to 4:45pm; weekends 9am-4:45pm. Admission $3 for adults 16 and over; under 16 free with adult.)
Fort Christiansvaern dominates the site, its cannons still trained on the entrance to the harbor, which it defended so well that the town was never successfully invaded. Kids will relish an opportunity to explore it, peer into several fully restored rooms and examine the big guns close up. Everyone will enjoy the view.
The site also includes the Steeple Building Museum (Open weekdays 9am to 4pm; Saturdays 9am until noon), the Danish Customs House, the Scale House, and the Danish West India & Guinea Company Warehouse, which was also a slave market until slavery was outlawed after a non-violent uprising in 1848.
St. Croix's greatest architectural treasure, the Government House, a splendid example of the elegant, neo-classical Danish colonial style, is a couple of blocks inland. A twelve-million-dollar renovation of this imposing three-story building was just recently completed. You can walk inside its courtyard and climb the grand staircase for a glimpse into its impressive ballroom. (Free admission. Open weekdays 8am to 5 pm.)
Give yourself a couple of hours at least to stroll about town, especially along the lovely waterfront promenade, Strand Street, where shops and restaurants will beckon. (To narrow the field to your own special interests, find a copy of the St. Croix This Week, a pink, free monthly guide.)
The St. Croix Aquarium, in the Caravelle Arcade, in the heart of the shopping district, has tanks of brightly colored tropical fish and various marine life, guided tours with some hands-on experience, and an educational gift shop.
There's regular ferry service out to Protestant Cay, the island across the harbor, where there's a beach suitable for young children, a good hotel, and an okay restaurant that serves island specialties and features live entertainment most nights, including an astonishingly energetic Mocko Jumbie dancer on stilts in an exuberantly colorful costume.
Snorkel Off St. Croix's North Coast
You might begin your tour of the island with a drive along the northern shore out to Point Udall, named after former Secretary of Interior Stuart Udall. On the way you'll find many scenic views and several old sugarcane estates, in various states of disrepair. (Sugarcane was a major source of income until the 1960s.) The impressive new monument celebrates the new millennium--MM is 2000 in Roman numerals--and functions as a giant sundial, with compass points indicated by brass letters. Just before you reach the point, there's a path leading down to a remote beach that few people ever visit--a great place for a picnic or a quick swim.
Buck Island Reef National Monument lies off this northeastern shore. Underwater enthusiasts should definitely plan a visit to its underwater snorkeling trail. There's an easy, kid-friendly hiking trail to the highest point on the island, which rewards you with a spectacular view of the barrier reef and St. John Island. Small boats can be chartered for the excursion; ask your hotel concierge to recommend an operator that fits your particular needs, if you have small children or are inexperienced divers. Plan on leaving in the morning and spending the better part of a day.
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