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It's Better in Barbados
"An eyeful 'en a bellyful..." Roughly translated, the Bajan proverb (Barbadians are called Bajans) means 'having a good look at something does not provide the kind of satisfaction derived from eating it.' True, there is no shortage of dreamy, colorful images of this eastern-most Caribbean island. Picture-perfect photos of the turquoise waters or of trees pregnant with mangoes and breadfruit peer out from travel magazines. The pastel painted homes that dot the island with an eye-teasing, mind-pleasing beauty grace too many tourism brochures.
Ah, but to be in Barbados is a different story; a former English colony (it received its independence only in 1966) it's not only laid back, it's especially friendly. The Bajans didn't reject their Colonial masters the way some of the islands did, and so it seems the lack of resentment made possible a warmth and friendliness to travelers that is unique and a joy to experience.
Barbados from the Back Seat
The best way to see the island, largely made up of coral, rolling hills and with two coasts as different from each other as they are from the rather dense interior, is not to rent a car.
Fodor's Caribbean makes the observation that "it's a pleasure to drive in Barbados," and notes only parenthetically (one line) to remember to drive on the left hand side and observe the many "round abouts" or as we call them, Rotaries.
I happen to think that anyone who feels he can drive easily with the steering wheel on the "passenger's side" and driving on the left, on roads that are well paved but very narrow, is either in serious denial or has nerves of steel.
The best way without a doubt to see the island is on an Island Safari. Am I making this up? Listen to what the Pollen family from Great Britain with 2 children (9 and 11) say: "We found the Jungle Safari absolutely brilliant. Our driver was 'Q' and we feel he made the experience thrilling, informative, and great fun. The children especially enjoyed the rough terrain, and the way the Land Rover bounced them around in the back. We saw a lot of the Country we wouldn't have seen, as we didn't feel confident enough to hire a car, and are sure that we saw a lot more than most as they knew exactly where to take us to get the best impression of Barbados."
After all, the drivers stop off and pick cotton, showing the local flowers and providing a non-stop commentary. As Mr. Pollen says, "We'd recommend it to anyone, old and young alike!" The 4x4 Land Rovers zoom along gullies, plunge into otherwise inaccessible places, get into the forest and then climb hills to look over cliffs at some of the most sunning beauty imaginable - an Atlantic Ocean on the East and the blue Caribbean Sea on the West. In between are numerous palm trees, vivid bougainvillea, sugar cane fields and now and again, green monkeys.
Most visitors to the island only see the coasts; but the safari trips get deep into the island. The Bajan guides are witty, good looking, very knowledgeable and skilled drivers. Believe me. It's quite fascinating to pull up to an old, beautifully preserved church and have these apparently "care free dudes" explain in detail the construction, and how walls are a mix of egg shells, coral and molasses, and so on.
Around the Island
Driving you'll pass many sugar cane fields. It's the chief export of Barbados, and the reason for so much slavery in these islands. The sugar plantation owners prospered while the slaves suffered. At one point there were 30 Black slaves to every White, and it's amazing to consider that such a small group of privileged people profited from the misery of so many. Slavery was abolished in 1834 - some 29 years before the States, and today 93% of Bajans are of African ancestry.
Sugar cane is still king. The world uses Barbados sugar cane for Rum, molasses and sweeteners. Free standing sugar mills from a by-gone age still dot the island, and the guides talk freely about those dark and troubled times. Now and again an old Sugar Mill, a concrete structure of some elegance catches the eye. The Almond Beach Resort grounds has one of the best on the island. It's odd how pastel-colored rum shops always exist next to a church. You're invited to drop in and join the locals as they sip super rum and discuss politics or maybe the sermon.
Though not included in a safari, be sure to visit Harrison's Cave (246/438-6640/41/43). As noted, the island is heavily coral, some of it fragile, with a large number of impressive caves, often filled with the surging surf. Harrison's is some special kind of cave, with a nearly-mile-long guided cave trip through stalactites and stalagmites glistening off the indirect light. Reservations only.
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