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Long an industrial center that visitors passed through quickly, this port city has undergone a surprisingly radical facelift.

Like changing diapers on a bad day, it can be difficult to shake off a reputation. Geelong, the second largest city in Australia's southern state of Victoria has somehow shaken off a boring image and reinvented itself.

A walk along thriving Pakington Street (or Pako as it's locally known) showed us a vibrant street buzzing with people strolling, eating, drinking, shopping and watching life on the edge of the Central Business District. Antiques, collectables and retro furniture drew browsers, fairies waved in children's shops, the hidden delights of books beckoned, and tattered exotic postcards lay scattered in an atmospheric coffee shop, its ruddy-cheeked Italian owner bustling cheerfully. 

In Geelong's city center, new road works, along with fresh landscaping and new street furniture have soaked up millions of dollars. The CBD boasts a freshly revamped city mall and the side streets are nicely touched up.  Redevelopment has improved the Botanic Gardens and the local yacht club, but the most appealing area is now the edge of Corio Bay.

Waterfront Pleasures

Previously just a working port, it's now a true tourist precinct with an historic pier, cafes and restaurants, and a marina. A walk along the waterfront took us to a series of wooden sculptures cleverly carved from bollards and depicting seaside life that fascinated the children.

Bathing pools, parklands and pavilions have transformed a deserted cement strip into a wonderfully attractive promenade. Our excited offspring rode a century-old and beautifully renovated carousel moving to the sound of a pipe organ.

The area is also an attractive setting for festivals such as the Geelong Wooden Boat Festival held in March, when unique wooden boats sail into Corio Bay for a weekend of racing and swapping yarns. Other festivals include Highland Gatherings, the Meredith Music Festival, the Offshore Festival and the sweetly named, family-inspired Poppykettle Festival.

Entertainment is also present in pubs, nightclubs and live music venues as well as in the strong regional theatre and arts scene.