Tasmania, Australia's Northern Wildnerness
The moment occurs at Cradle Mountain, a beautiful and wild spot in northern Tasmania. On the front porch of our little cabin, I am face to face with a small furry muzzle. The rest of the animal is a small dark furry kangaroo-like creature, known as a Pademelon. I look at Mrs. Pademelon. She looks back at me. A little head emerges from her pouch. My baby’s head swivels around to stare at Pademelon Joey from my own frontal nylon pouch. Suddenly mummy marsupial and I completely understand each other; a timeless moment of astounding interspecies connection. Why sister, you can’t wait until junior hops away on his own either eh? Mothers unite!
Australia's Rare Tranquility
Wilderness has become a scarce, sacred and precious resource. To have Tasmania's vast expanse of wild forest, lakes, rivers and mountains off the southern coast of Australia to explore is a blessing. We take the opportunity to show our children an environment we don’t usually have a chance to discover. One of the most extraordinary wilderness spots on the island is Cradle Mountain.
A shuttle bus takes you to a series of lakes including Dove Lake (the start of a six day hike, which we were not undertaking this time), where we absorb the hauntingly beautiful landscape. Standing by a glassy lake cut into the rugged landscape and mirroring a sky flecked with the promise of stormy drama, I cannot fathom that there is any other existence. Something about the Cradle Mountain region -- its sheer remoteness, wild alien vegetation and both bitter and beautiful colors of greens, blues and browns under a huge bubble of steely blue sky -- pushes away all other places and realities.
The only reality becomes the lakes, alpine and rainforest vegetation and wildlife including wallabies (small kangaroo), Tasmanian Devils (a lively black snub-nosed animal with serrated teeth) and possums. Mists rising from pools and wrapping around peaks complete the otherworldly feel. Somewhere out there Frodo and his companions are searching for the ring. I almost regret not planning to hike the Overland Track, for somewhere on its 65-kilometer walk through this UNESCO World Heritage Area I might have been able to find the Ring companions and join their quest. Always did have a few questions to ask old Gandalf...
We had arrived at Cradle Mountain via the west coast of Tasmania. Basing ourselves at Strahan, we discover a range of activities taking us into the magnificent wilderness clothing this part of the island. “We need to travel at a slow pace so the backwash doesn’t disturb the banks of the river,” explains the Captain, as the World Heritage Cruises (+61 (0)3 6471 7174) boat slows to a snail pace. It doesn't matter. The slowness allows us to stand on the boat and drink in the extraordinary sight of a clear mighty river wandering though thick undisturbed forests, watched by a wheeling bird of prey.
The Gordon River flows through the western wilderness of Tasmania eventually joining with the Franklin River to make pristine wilderness accessible by boat. We stop for a short walk through cool, moist forests of Myrtle Beech and Huon Pine tangling with over 100 other species of plant life. The smell of fresh, rich, vibrant death, which here also means rebirth, sinks sweetly into places of mind, body and spirit largely untouched by other experiences.
The kids love the forest floor with its many different plants and bits of debris from the living and the dead and I feel grateful to bring them here to experience the rich presence of nature away from the sterility of our concrete city. We eat a buffet lunch with great appetite back on board, reflecting on the tangle of wild things.
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