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Kunming, China
Yunnan Province, long traversed by backpackers foreign and domestic, contains some of the most pleasant climates in all of China. From idyllic Lugu Lake in the north, to Xishuangbanna in the tropical south, Yunnan offers many possibilities for a memorable family outing.
In the center of it all lies Kunming, the provincial capital. Located at about 1,800 meters (almost 6,000 feet) above sea level, Kunming’s year-long mild weather has earned it the title “Spring City.” Even in January, the air never approaches freezing; neither do the summer days push the mercury too high. The rainy season lasts from mid-April to mid-June, and during this time it is not uncommon to have at least one shower a day for two weeks or more. The best time to visit this city is between July and December, though any time of year is fine for a trip to Kunming.
Start your sightseeing in the ample sunshine at Green Lake. The park area is mostly taken up by the water, but there are many walkways filled with people talking, exercising, and enjoying the good weather. In the early mornings, many will be practicing tai ji quan (tai chi). Usually, there are impromptu opera performances in the afternoon, with brilliant costumes and live music. Buy the kids some cotton candy and take them out on the water in a paddleboat. If it’s winter, you can feed the thousands of red-beaked seagulls that migrate here from northern China each year.
Yuan Tong Si is one of Yunnan’s holiest Buddhist temples; it was built during the Yuan Dynasty about 700 years ago, and its tranquil grounds are well worth a tour. There is a small pond, home to countless goldfish and turtles, two animals that Chinese hold in special reverence. When the sun shines, the turtles crawl out and bask on the foundation of an octagonal pavilion in the center of the water. Much bigger animals live down the road from the temple at the Kunming Zoo, one of the more reputable zoos in China.
For a livelier atmosphere, head to the Flower and Bird Market. Here hawkers house an amazing array of wild, colorful birds; tropical fish; puppies and kittens; lizards; and, of course, flowers. In addition, there are numerous stalls selling trinkets, jewelry, Mao lighters, and other odd paraphernalia. It’s easy to wander around here for a couple of hours, with lots of snack shacks to help you energize along the way.
Family Lodging and Dining Ideas
Accommodation ranges from the dirt-cheap to the extremely luxurious. Backpackers flock to the Camellia Hotel (86-871-316-3000) for the dorm beds, though clean, comfortable double rooms are available for around RMB 200 (US$25) and suites for RMB 350. Even if you’re not staying here, the Camellia is a good place to book tours of the worthwhile sites outside of the city, such as the Stone Forest and the giant Lake Dian.
For more upscale living quarters, you can’t do better than the Harbour Plaza Hotel (86-871-538-3738) or the Green Lake Hotel. Always check for deals first – and try to bargain – but double rooms should run around US$100 per night, including an American breakfast.
Kunming has a few staple foods that all tourists are required to try. If you speak a little Chinese with the locals, it is only a matter of time before they ask, “Have you tried our famous Cross-the-Bridge Rice Noodles?”
Go directly to the flagship Brothers Jiang Noodle Restaurant in Xiao Xi Men, and get a standard bowl for RMB 20. The staff will bring you a steaming bowl of broth and a few plates’ worth of meat and vegetables to your liking, plus rice noodles. Show that you know how it’s done by dumping the ingredients into the soup in the proper order: eggs first, followed by meat, then vegetables, and finally noodles. Stir for two minutes and slurp with sloppy abandon.












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