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This family explores China's ancient capital of Xi'an, home of the famed life-size terra cotta warriors excavated at an imperial tomb.

I may be writing about Xi'an, China as an ideal destination for those Asia-based families who have a long weekend to spare, but after spending two nights and three days in Xi'an over the summer, I can tell you that it's just not enough time to appreciate this unique and misunderstood city.

Xi'an, site of a Neolithic village dating back 6,000 years, served as the capital of 11 Chinese dynasties beginning in the 9th century B.C. "The Land of Kings and Flowers" was the name given to Xi'an by the legendary poet, Du Fu, who served the Chinese court under the Tang Dynasty. One of seven major ancient Chinese cities, it prospered as the starting point of the Silk Road which extended all the way to Rome. Today, it is a modern, polluted and charmless sprawl which lures travelers with just one of the world's great wonders: 8,000 life-size terracotta warriors excavated from the royal tombs of Qin Shi Huang, China's first emperor and star of the fascinating film, "The Emperor and the Assassin".  That first glimpse of them, shaded under a series of enclosed domes to protect the ongoing excavation, is worth flying around the world for.

Terra Cotta Warriors

Visitors circle a mezzanine above the warriors, looking down in wonder at the individual faces of those who gave their lives to protect their emperor in death. The bronze weapons found in the tombs are especially impressive to young boys. Although we had run the gauntlet of pushy souvenir vendors at the site's entrance, afterwards we spent an hour in the gift shop, where replicas in all sizes are made out of the same hard black clay the region is known for. Our son had trouble deciding whether a general, archer, sergeant, or cavalryman was a more appropriate souvenir; and invested three days' allowance in a boxed set with all four.

Interestingly, in mid-2005, the government arranged for Mr. Yong, said to be one of the three farmer brothers who discovered the terra cotta figures in 1974 while plowing a field, to appear at the gift shop a few days a week to sign autographs.

This tomb is partially excavated, but not necessarily the most enlightening of the 18 Tang Dynasty tombs known in Shaanxi province. After strolling around this vast and truly remarkable archeological site, we returned to the car for the hour drive back to the hotel.  At several points, we were tempted to stop the driver and get out at the many burial mounds which line the main highway back.  We were convinced that other treasures lay waiting to be uncovered!  Alas, no time...

On the return, we made a brief stop at the Hua Qing Hot Springs, the favored bathing spot of the Tang Dynasty emperors and myriad wives. It is a lovely Chinese style garden with several marble ponds and a plumbing system to channel hot spring water rivaling those seen in much of rural China today.