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China's capital is a fascinating hotbed of new construction, changing styles, new technologies and conflicting traditions.

Beijing is both the capital of the People's Republic of China and an ancient city boasting renowned historical and cultural attractions. In addition to the palaces, imperial gardens, museums, temples and tombs of the former Peking, today's visitor will find a rapidly changing skyline, brand new amenities and an open, welcoming attitude towards foreigners. Already home to more than 15 million of the country's 1.3 billion residents, Beijing continues its futuristic sprawl. Families should allow at least five days to see the "classic" sights, then add time to revel in the imaginative newness of so much expansion.

Because I had been to Beijing in 1980 (and even co-authored a piece about independent travel for the brand new China Daily), I wasn't too worried about entertaining my husband and 10-year-old son on our summer visit. But I did want to be sure that each day's experience was as intense as those I remembered in a long-ago China, one which for political and economic reasons no longer exists. Go to Beijing now and you'll be confronted by today, tomorrow and 2008, the year in which the Olympics (and ultimate acceptance by the West) will finally arrive in this once forbidden city.

Beijing's Major Attractions

Here's our family's short list of the very important experiences one should have in Beijing, but communications in the new China are so improved that you can really let your own interests guide you. There are as many art galleries and military museums as Buddhist shrines, and as many upscale malls and fast food restaurants as Imperial palaces. With the comprehensive guide training and English language seminars being dispensed by tour operators, tourist offices, hoteliers and taxi cab owners to their staff, you won't have any trouble finding out about the location, hours, admission fees, etc. of sights that pique your interest.

However, be sure that every family member carries the hotel's business card (written in both English and Mandarin) at all times, and request of your hotel concierge that every destination you plan to visit be written out in Chinese, with a Mandarin pronunciation key, so you can ask passersby for directions if you get lost. Although Beijing has inexpensive subways and public buses, those traveling with children will probably prefer taxis (also a bargain). Note that heavy traffic has made bicycles, while still used by locals, too dangerous for most tourists.

Tiananmen Square - Anyone who remembers the televised image of a young man playing cat 'n mouse with an army tank during the student uprisings of 1989 will want to see Tiananmen - at 440,000-square-meters, it is the world's largest public square. On this site on October 1st, 1949, Mao proclaimed the People's Republic of China, making National Week celebrations and many other holidays a very crowded time to visit. Since those days though, the famed Tiananmen Square (Square of the Heavenly Gate) has been broken up by traffic circles, subway entries and crosswalks, diminishing the enormous power of its huge former void. Yet it is still a popular kite-flying ground, the south gateway to the Imperial Palace at the Forbidden City and the site of Mao's Tomb, making it our choice for your Day One sight.

Forbidden City (Imperial Palace Museum) - If only to see where "The Last Emperor" was filmed, you must go to the enormous compound of walled palaces once forbidden from public view. Built between 1407-1420 by up to 200,000 laborers, the red-painted palaces with gold-shingle roofs were constructed of wood shipped from all over the country along China's 6th-century canal system. Bronze cauldrons too large to peer into are mounted throughout to collect rain water against fire damage. Unlike the centuries preceding Pu'Yi's departure as the last emperor in 1924, there are now reproduction furnishings in some pavilions but little of the artwork, classically painted screens, woven rugs, feather ornaments or fragrant censers of its heyday. In recent years, commercialization has creeped its way in-- there is now a Starbucks in the Forbidden City, as well as several souvenir shops. In March 2006, The World Monuments Fund announced plans to fund the restoration of the Qianlong Garden's architectural and landscape elements, ensuring that will be another focal point of your visit.

Just inside the north door (Jingshan Qianjie) is a booth where families can arrange for a private, guided two-hour tour. We made our request for an English-speaking guide and within 20 minutes, a young university student had arrived, charging us a minimal amount for a tour in less-than-fluent English. As at many Chinese sights today, the monumental scope of the 180-acre space, its gardens, architecture and the unusual traditions told of the Imperial court are more stunning than what's inside any building. Starting at the end opposite Tiananmen Square was like seeing its 8,707 rooms back to front, but it was less crowded and our son thrived on the attention of the young woman, who insisted we take our picture together in dozens of spots. When the guide wore out, we lingered to admire the thousands of Chinese posing for photos.

Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan) - This magnificent architectural gem, where the Emperors of the Ming and Qing Dynasties prayed for a good harvest, lies about a half-mile south of Tiananmen, deep within a landscaped park where many dance and exercise groups work out to pre-recorded music. Guidebook in hand, we carefully explained to our son what each circular chamber and square courtyard represented, and why the Emperor's prayers could be more easily heard with this proximity to heaven. Of most interest to him were the arms and swords for sale. One souvenir vendor, who spoke commercial English with great style, taught him more about Imperial history while pitching a sword set than we had in the previous hour.

Many temples as well as attractions all over Beijing underwent a facelift in preparation for the 2008 Olympics. The most noted of the temples in this complex, the Hall for the Prayer of Good Harvests, was built without a single nail and it was reopened in 2006 after undergoing repairs.

Public Parks - Thanks to jet lag, we arose very early our first morning and so chose that day to visit Jingshan Park, one of Beijing's largest and prettiest public parks, to watch some sunrise Tai'Chi and dance classes. It is centrally located behind the Forbidden City. When our taxi pulled up to the entrance on broad Jingshan Qianjie boulevard about 6am, there were literally hundreds of men, women and children out and about, strolling or working out in unison under volunteer leaders. We had a delightful breakfast of dumpling soup and tea for about 20 cents each, joined an exercise class, and walked around the park. What a remarkable experience for all of us. It's easy to spot the highest peak, Prospect Hill with its small pagoda-like tip, from which you have an amazing aerial view of the Forbidden City. Back at the main entrance, the one opposite the Forbidden City's "back door" we stopped at a photographer's booth to pose in Imperial raiment for a priceless family portrait. By 7am we felt we'd been in China all our lives and we loved it.

The Summer Palace - Set in acres of parkland, this is a worthwhile and pleasant afternoon excursion to see the remnants of the Ming and Qing dynasties summer estate and rent a rowboat on scenic Lake Kunming. The palace served as a summer resort for the Empress Dowager, who is said to have diverted millions of government silver towards the reconstruction and enlargement of the Summer Palace.

Two Temples of Interest - We briefly visited the Confucius Temple, which houses huge stone tablets inscribed with the names of winners is the imperial examination in Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasty. The Lama Temple (Yonghe Lamasery) is the former Yong He Palace, constructed in 1694 for the royal family. Interestingly in light of recent politics, this palace was rededicated as a Buddhist Temple in 1723 then given over to Lamaist practitioners in 1744.