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An Atlantic oceanfront view of north Africa's most intriguing country presents this family with a relaxing and rewarding vacation.

We knew a few things from our first trip to Morocco: its ideal location in north Africa, its distinction as one of the most tolerant Muslim societies, the fact that French is universally spoken. We remembered the country's intense markets and devoted artisans, and knew how its modern infrastructure, fine cuisine and music would appeal to the family. But if we planned a return trip to the country's beaches, would we experience the exotic culture that had so appealed to us?

On our summer 2007 coastal journey, we discovered Essaouira, then explored Casablanca and Tangier on the Atlantic coast before our return to Spain. Surprisingly, we found contemporary conveniences coexisting with age-old traditions. If the last 10 years of exposure to Europeans and their customs has made Moroccans more tolerant of tourists in bikinis, it's also reinforced their commitment to preserving a unique culture.  While Western women can feel comfortable sunbathing at the beach, they'll have to stay away from the footpaths trod by camels on their way from desert to market.

Essaouira – Since the Days of Jimi Hendrix

From an 18th century Portuguese trading outpost to the setting for Orson Welles' "Othello" and, later, the antics of Jimi Hendriz, Essaouira has always flourished. This picturesque port is on Morocco's eastern Atlantic coast almost opposite the Canary Islands. What is surprising is that Essaouira survived the last decade of the 20th century, when it remained largely a Marrakech Express By The Sea, to become one of Europe's most popular and pricey seaside getaways. Still colorful and funky, it's a fun place to stop with the family for a few days of chaotic R n' R.

Essaouira's fine sand crescent beach extends along the coast road south of town, with many horse and camel ride vendors at the far end near the gently eroded ruins of a Portuguese fort. Windsurfers and surfers attempt their sport near the Club Mistral shop somewhere in the middle. At our July visit, the line of families waiting for adult camels who could carry all the children at once stretched down the beach, so we ended up hiring two baby camels for a 15-minute introductory stroll.  At the north end of the popular beach is the busy fishers' port filled with the blue caiques that bring in the daily catch of sardines. 

Moroccans come for the town's famous seafood and here, just outside the Medina's walls, are a dozen food stalls where you can select a fish and have it grilled fresh on the spot. Not far from Square Orson Welles, Chez Sam is the best choice for a delicious tablecloth meal; in a boat-like edifice, they even serve a beef kofte with potato that could easily pass as a hamburger and a fries.

Essaouira's restored ramparts now serve as an esplanade for thousands of visitors each sunset, and its well organized medina, designed by French architect Cubert, is filled with artisans shops, postcard stalls and thousands of cats. An intriguing collection of enterprises are tucked behind the high stuccoed walls, and places like the creperie/gallery call La Triskalla on rue Touahen, with its smoothies and Moroccan salads and mezzanine seating, will delight all ages. Le Taros on Place Moulay Hassan has indoor and outdoor dining, a lively bar scene and loud pop music typical of Essaouira's nightlife, which tends to be led by young Europeans who move from dining to reclining at the port's many stylish eateries throughout the night.