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Two Days in Cappadocia, Turkey
Ready for a break from the urban chaos of Istanbul? Pack your walking shoes and head to Cappadocia for, literally, a breath of fresh air. Just a short flight from Istanbul, this magical landscape was created millions of years ago after the Erciyes and Hasan Mountains erupted -- offering a historic wonderland to visitors. Now dormant, snow-capped Erciyes Mountain dominates the landscape and adds to the breathtaking beauty of the region.
The origin of the region's intriguing underground homes and rock-cut cave dwellings is unknown. According to the Republic of Turkey Culture and Tourism Office, local seismic activity made having a stone and earth home more practical even in Neolithic times. These underground settlements (many of which can be toured) were well insulated from the harsh climate and protected from tribal warfare, yet archeologists cite the lack of toilet facilities as an indication they may have been used only temporarily for security. When excavations began in 1964, Turkish scientists thought the cave dwellings were built by Christians to hide in. Subsequent study revealed a much older origin, largely erased by the rebuilding of new homes on top of older ones. The Greek soldier and author Xenophon, student of Socrates, notes their existence in 401 B.C. but their continued occupation, whether for military, defensive or residential purposes, is lost to time.
Exploring the Region by Foot
With a pace that is as far removed from the bustling city of Istanbul as you can get, the village of Uçhisar offers stunning views, a handful of restaurants, and quiet streets filled with local residents. Wherever you make your base, call early and book tour guide Mustafa Yedek (90/532 609-5593) or hiking guide Haydar Haykir (90/384 341-6000), Uçhisar locals, to explore these extraordinary rock structures.
Try hiking the Red Valley, where you’ll slowly descend about 100 meters and visit the Direkli Kilise (Column Church), a soaring Byzantine cathedral set in a cliff, which is virtually invisible from the outside except for a tiny window and stairs. Alternately, hike the White Valley. Also known as Love Valley, it’s a flatter hike (perfect for kids) and just as spectacular. You’ll get up-close and personal with the phallic-shaped fairy chimneys that dominate the landscape and give the valley its name. Go early in the day and what you won’t see is a single coach bus or a large group of tourists. The rate for a guide is approximately $50 or with transportation $50-100 per day. To save some money and enjoy the flexibility to explore on your own, pick up a rental car from Uçhisar, Ürgüp, or Göremeasy. It's easy and inexpensive and ideal for families with kids who want to sightsee at their own pace.
If this is your first trip to Cappadocia, don’t miss Göreme’s Open Air Museum, but go at noon, while the tour groups are still enjoying their Turkish buffet lunches, or after 5pm to avoid the crowds. While in Göreme, stop by Tribal Collections (90/384 271-2400) for a chat with Ruth Lockwood, a transplanted New Zealander who can offer an honest introduction to Cappadocian kilim rugs as well as advice on out-of-the way places to visit.
Be sure to finish your trekking in time to find a comfortable spot to watch the sun set and save time to savor the region’s best-tasting export, their local wines. You’ll find Kocabag winery in Uçhisar (90/384 219-2979) and Turasan winery in Ürgüp (90/384 341-4961) -- free tastings are available at both. The white wine grapes are grown locally while the red grapes are grown elsewhere in Turkey and blended, but after a few glasses, does it really matter?
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