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Tracks Across the Sabi Sand
The Lodge had only four tents, guaranteeing a maximum of eight people on safari at any time. Set on a permanent base with stucco walls, working windows and A/C, the overhead is canvassed like a real tent. Inside we find embroidered linens, a marbled bathroom with sunken bath, a glass walled shower, double sinks and separate toilet. So much for roughing it in the Bush!
To see wild animals up close and personal, Savanna is a great place to start, but safety issues are serious. The tents are not fenced in and animals wander around the campsite at will; between sunset and sunrise even adults are escorted to and from their tents by a security guard. That is why Savanna welcomes children over 7 years only.
It's still dark as we gulp down hot coffee following a 5 am wake-up call, before boarding the specially equipped Land Rover for our first game-viewing expedition. Duncan, our driver, guide, head ranger and camp manager all in one, works as a team with Ephraim, his "spotter" who sits perched over the left front wheel. Ephraim looks, listens and points; he rarely speaks. He is the eyes and ears of the expedition, and reads tracks, interprets droppings, notices every tell-tale movement in the bush, and spots birds and animals we would never otherwise see. He soon sees a family of elephants, a pride of lions with tiny cubs, a herd of Cape buffalo, white rhinos and countless impala. The locals call impala "the McDonalds of South Africa - there's one on every corner and everybody eats them". They are graceful creatures and, fortunately, prolific breeders for they are low on the food chain in lion country.
As the sun rises, the vast silent plain looks as it must have done for thousands of years and we realize this is home to the animals, it is we who are the interlopers. Duncan quietly tells us that the elephant suckling her youngster not 20 yards away sees our vehicle only in silhouette -- we are part of it. Our scent is masked by the vehicle, he tells us, and while this condition is maintained, we are safe.
Exhilarated, we return to camp about 9 am for a full English-style breakfast. For those who choose, Ephraim later escorts a walk in the Bush. His encyclopedic knowledge of animals, birds and the environment quickly becomes apparent. He points out flowers, trees and grasses with many different uses, some medicinal, some decorative and some part of local life and folklore. We move warily through the bush, quietly concerned that Ephraim carries only a metal spear, until he demonstrates his skill with it, using a distant tree stump as his target. We are very impressed; he says, "I've never lost a tourist."
Lunch in the shade of a cooling thatch is followed by a cat-nap for those not too busy filling in their "Safari Sightings" list, and soon it's time for the afternoon drive to a different part of the reserve. We see baboons, more lions -- not the same ones, say rangers who recognize them. As darkness falls, we see nightjars, hyenas, ring-tailed bucks and more impala, very alert now it's getting dark. It's feeding time for the predators.
Back at camp by 9 pm, we join the group around a log fire for drinks and discussion of the day's sightings and are joined at the dinner table by Duncan and his assistant manager, wife Louise, working mother of 1-year-old Megan, who is being raised here. Isak Dinesen would surely approve! It's been a long day but already we're looking forward to our 5 am call, to see still more wildlife. On our pillow a handwritten note reads, "We hope your visit with us was very special. When all the animals are gone, man will die of loneliness."
We treasure it.
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