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Tunis And The Wonders Of Northern Tunisia
Welcoming more than five million tourists last year, Tunisia has slowly taken the Francophone world by storm since its independence from France in 1956. Mediterranean beaches on the whitewashed island of Djerba and several other coastal enclaves feature the all-inclusive resorts and luxury hotels of France's Club Med; Spain's Melia, Iberostar and Riu chains; Italy's Club Valtur and Vincci chains; Germany's Robinson Club and many others. Well-preserved historical sights include the Phoenician empire's capital at Carthage and Africa's first mosque at Kairouan. The combination of vacation and cultural possibilities in a clean, safe, and affordable destination has proved irresistible to European families for two generations.
Tunisia's exotic blend of the original Berber and various other cultures is evident in the handcrafts, cuisine, and carpets that line its markets or souks. The country's tolerant form of Sunni Islam encourages gender equality (almost 68% of university students are women) and allows sightseers to feel comfortable in shorts. Tunisia has emerged from its period of colonization to become the most westernized country in North Africa, using the French language, cuisine, educational system and political infrastructure to the benefit of its tourism industry. Due to an increased appetite for exotic locales and the arrival of low fare airlines, Tunisia is beginning to attract global travelers.
Following Carthage, A Wave of Invaders
From a modern international airport named Tunis Carthage, it's apparent that this contemporary Arab country is justly proud of its ancient heritage. On an acropolis above the northeast side of Tunis lie the ruins of Carthage, the seafaring powerhouse dating from 814 BC. Nearly 3,000 years before the present Israel and Lebanon conflict, the ancient Phoenicians saw a need to establish a colony on the southern side of the Mediterranean to compete with trade routes controlled by Greece and its colony on Sicily.
For centuries Carthage prospered, as seen from excavations of exquisite pottery, mosaics, marble and terra cotta statuary removed to Paris' Louvre and Tunis' own stunning Bardo Museum. When the envious Roman Empire began to dominate the region, when they set their sights on annexing wealthy Carthage, they failed. After the three Punic Wars of the 2nd and 1st century -- the most famous of which involved the Carthaginian general Hannibal and his attempted conquest of Rome by elephant -- the city was sacked and burned in 146 BC.
After Caesar defeated Pompeii, Roman Carthage became the center of a kingdom that incorporated much of North Africa. Vandals invaded from Germany in the 5th century AD and vandalized the city; the Byzantines invaded a century later; and the Arabs invaded in the 7th century, bringing the religion of Islam, modern day Tunisia's most important cultural legacy. Between 1534 and 1830, Tunisia prospered under the Turkish rule of the Ottoman Empire. After a period of decline, the French invaded in 1881 and colonized Tunisia throughout the global upheavals of two World Wars. Tunisia became a republic after independence was declared on March 20, 1956.Tunis' Arab Architecture & Cultural Heritage
When the urban bustle of green and blue electric trolleys, silver and glass skyscrapers, and businesswomen on mopeds fools visitors into believing that Tunis is just like any other city, it's time to tour the Medina. Tunis' fascinating walled medina or old town encloses a prosperous market with hundreds of shops, several mosques, tiny restaurants and a labyrinth of pedestrian-only souks or lanes earmarked for shoemakers, or hat vendors, poultry sellers or blacksmiths, beauty products or Islamic votive offerings.
Hotels or the local tourist office can recommend a licensed guide to help travelers discover what's behind the ornate door of the Dar Ben Abdallah, a restored mansion exhibiting traditional costumes, cookware and more; or another home, the Dar Lasram. Guides will point out the first Arab university in the Ez-Zitouna Mosque compound; the Turkish mosque of Sidi Mehrez; and the 13th century Sidi Kacem El Jellizi, all within the medina.
For a casual stroll sans knowledgeable guide, enter by the pretty landscaped Place du Gouvernement where a former royal guesthouse, the Dar El Bey, is now used as the Prime Minister's office. Pass by the Mosque of Youssef Dey with its octagonal minaret then straight down the crooked Handcrafts Lane, where you can see local caftans, inlaid wood boxes, jewelry and silverwork, leathergoods and more. Several of the lanes are shaded by overhead drapes that keep them surprisingly cool in the hot summer sun. Leave behind the embroidered pillow cases and quilts and make a quick detour for a fig pastry in the Bakers Lane. Notice the tiny cafes where men sit and smoke chichas, the traditional shared waterpipe. In Taxiphone stalls, vendors offer long distance call service metered by the minute, just like the local taxis. Pass through the Bab el Bahr, or Sea Gate, and time travel into Tunis' Nouvelle Ville at Place de la Victoire. After pausing at Café Dinar for a mint tea, avid shoppers will be ready to hit the department stores along Avenue Bourguiba. Families who are seriously interested in local handcrafts should explore the Maison de l'Artisanat where quality and authenticity are guaranteed.
Year round, the neighborhood and temperate climate of Sidi Bou Said, along the tall cliffs above the Mediterranean north of Carthage, attract visitors. This elite hilltop suburb dates to the 16th century, when its domed stucco homes were built to honor the Sufi mystic (sidi or holy man) Abou Said Khalafa Ben Yahia. Off limits to non-believers until the 1820s, the community was rediscovered in 1912, largely in ruins, by expatriate musicologist Baron d'Erlanger. He undertook its restoration, insisting that all buildings be whitewashed and all woodwork by painted in a vivid blue color, and convinced local authorities that it should be declared a protected zone. Today, a cobblestone pedestrian zone, it is reminiscent of the Mediterranean towns of Italy, France or Greece.
After the cruise ship hordes depart at noon, stroll uphill from the nearest taxi halt, or take the blue TGM tramline (from downtown Tunis it costs DT 1.650 and takes 20 minutes), to Sidi Bou's whitewashed lanes for a delightful excursion. The kids will love peeking into the narrow stone alleys off the main street, the many small art galleries, the shopkeepers selling souvenirs, and the best bambbaloni, or donuts, in town. Don't miss Dar El Annabi, an 18th-century mansion that has become a private house museum. The DT3 admission fee covers a glass of mint tea, access to the roof terrace for spectacular views, and a shaded Andalusian style patio with a central fountain and lush jasmine and bougainvillea plants.
Contemporary nightlife is one of unusual cultural attractions in this Muslim country, and in summer, the social scene swirls around the seashore. The picturesque neighborhood of Sidi Bou Said, with its cliff top views and outdoor cafes, is even more appealing at dusk, when the rosy sunlight bathes the whitewashed mansions clinging to the cliffs. It's our first choice for a totally safe and delightful evening stroll without spending much money.
Teens should be aware that indoor/outdoor discos whose names change each season abound downtown and along the coastal roads. Monthly tourist publications in English and French note concerts and other special events; Mariah Carey played the Olympic Arena at our visit. There are also summer music festivals all over the country with international stars.
Devote another evening to Boulevard Ben Bourguiba, the city's main avenue in the Nouvelle Ville or turn-of-the-century French town. In addition to the French Embassy and grand Church along its length are department stores, patisseries and many small snack shops. In the heart of the city you'll find young couples in jeans holding hands, women in caftans sitting at cafes with their husbands, cinemas playing the latest American action film, and several small parks filled with strollers and those seeking fresh air. There are several noted restaurants in this quarter.
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