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Athens

On Louis Cruise Lines, many of the ships depart from the port town of Piraeus near Athens. It's a fine place for ships, with a staggering 60 a day arriving at peak times. But this perennially traffic-clogged port town has perhaps a single attraction for visitors not boarding a boat: shopping. If you only have a day, board the open air subway and head to Athens.

Athens, about 20 minutes away, is much more attractive.

The Acropolis is what everyone wants to see, and over the years this monument has seen it all. It was the site of many decisive events in the city's history, and in the 5th century reflected the art and culture of the golden age of Pericles. Guides are recommended to see it, and they can be hired on the spot before climbing the many -- sometimes steep -- stone steps leading to the top of the rocky crag. At the top of a winding climb is the Parthenon, the famous classic temple of ancient Greece. Nearby, and set to open in June 2009 will be the new Acropolis Museum containing many antiquities returned to Greece by countries whose turn-of-the-century archeological teams pillaged the site. 

The second best attraction in Athens is the National Archeological Museum (30 210 821 7717). Not only is it the largest in Greece, it is also among the world's greatest museums. More than 20,000 exhibits trace the history of Greek civilization from the beginnings of pre-history to more modern times. 

A short walking distance from the Acropolis is Platanos, (30 210 322 0666) one of the oldest restaurants in the fashionable Plaka district. Bargain prices for unpretentious grilled Greek food such as lamb with artichokes and eggplant salad served in a bougainvillea-covered terrace have made this a favorite since it opened in 1932.

Plate sharing is the rule at nearby Taverna Plaka, which is in the oldest section of Athens where most of the streets have been closed. The atmosphere is very casual and food is reasonably priced (from $16 per person).  

The Plaka area was once a nightclub district but many places closed down when the government outlawed amplified music in the 1970s. That was to keep out unduly loud "undesirables" and it apparently worked. Today, Plaka is an area of upscale restaurants, jewelry stores, tourist shops and cafes. Shoppers note:  The common commercial mantra is to look around generally for the best jewelry in Greece, as well as knock-off luxury products such as watches. Expect the best prices for hand-made leather goods to be found in Turkey. 

Details, Details

You've probably heard of Louis Cruises, famous for the summer 2008 tragedy off the island of Santorini, Greece, when one of their ships struck an underwater volcanic reef and sank, taking the lives of two French passengers with it. Despite this incident, which followed our family's cruise, the line continues to operate, offering a full slate of 2009 sailings from Greece, France, Cyprus and Italy. For information on Louis Cruise Lines, get in touch with your travel agent, call 800/490-2079 or visit www.louiscruises.com.

For more information about Greece and planning your land itinerary, visit the Greek National Tourism Organization's website at www.gnto.gr.