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Heraklion, Crete

With a port guarded by huge stone lions, Heraklion or Iraklion is the largest city on Crete, the most rugged of the Greek isles. Archeological studies show a Minoan civilization dating back to 4,000 BC. A must-see attraction just outside the town is the famous Knossos Palace, itself once guarded by the original lion statues. The enormous palace complex is thought to have been abandoned by the Minoan kings when a tidal wave (probably one formed after the volcanic eruption on Santorini) washed over Crete. 

Local Iraklion restaurants offer traditional Greek cuisine, said to be among the best in the country because Crete is the only island where tomotoes grow year round. Sample the island's fresh natural products, such as local cheeses, at Manousos Tavern (30 281 076 2350). There's also the Dolphin Beach Bar, which is aptly named because it has been a popular beachfront bar since it opened in 1958 catering to locals. 

Around the island of Crete

Greece's largest island is one of its most famous -- no surprise, because it has everything: mountainside landscapes, a coast with beaches and rocky coves, white-washed towns and harbors, and ruins of the Minoan civilization. 

Among its most intriguing sites are old monasteries, chapels and churches, some of them dating back to the year AD961.There are 300 registered Byzantine churches around Crete and many other Catholic churches. A popular tourist stop is the Katholikon, or Monastery of Saint John the Hermit of the Stranger. This ruined monastery is the oldest one in Crete (built in the 11^th century). The building was entirely cut out of nearby rock and marble. The cave where Saint John the Hermit lived and worked can be explored. 

Visitors to Crete (home of "Zorba The Greek") should consider making some stops at the hilly country towns dotted with wineries, windmills and olive groves that date back several millennia. The quiet market town of Archanes is an archeological site that has won awards as one of the best restored cities in Europe. 

For whatever reason, many of the best Cretan restaurants are in older buildings. Veneto Restaurant (30 282 109 3527), for example, is housed in a 15^th-century renovated Venetian building. Classic Italian fare is served here with a great wine selection. Another restaurant in a 15^th-century building is Pallas (30 282 104 5688), also known for its Italian delicacies.