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A blow-by-blog journal from FTF's train reporter on his riding the rails trip to Canada to sample the Ottawa, Ontario and Quebec City, Quebec winter festivals, held annually in February.

Day 1

Dear FTF readers:

Winter brings some inconvenience to most of us, and today was one of those days. After waking up at 4:30am, it was a long day to get up to Ottawa, Canada where I am now writing to all of you from the comfort of the Fairmont Chateau Laurier (613/241-1414) hotel. My plane ride was changed from a one hour and small change trip to a journey of four hours and 15 minutes. Two airports, two de-icings and three coffees later, I arrived at the brand new Ottawa International Airport Terminal, drenched in northern latitude light and snowfall - a most fitting entry to the capital city of Canada.

I am here to attend Winterlude, a festival now in its 26th year, staged by the National Capital Commission. Many years ago, in high school, an English teacher described Canada as "The United States with manners." So true then, and so true now.

A quick transfer from the airport to the hotel was by way of the ByWard Market (613/562-3325), a revitalized part of downtown Ottawa. There we were able to attend the ByWard Market Stew Cook-off. Simple: just take 24 different restaurants, each with its own preparations (of bison, beef, pork, chicken, fish and venison) and give each attendee a small bowl and a spoon to sample with. Each table had wonderful variations for judging both by professionals and by cook-off attendees. It was cold, but fun, and indicative of how enjoyable Winterlude may prove to be.

This afternoon, dressed for the cold, I walked past Parliament Hill, the Legislative seat of the Canadian Government. In the snowy afternoon, the stately majesty of its buildings made for an urban landscape unmatched anywhere. Then, it was off to Sparks Street, the home of a pedestrian mall filled with interesting stores and a wealth of restaurants.

A travelers' day is not complete without doing something unusual. By 4pm it was time for tea, which was served at Zoe's Lounge at the Laurier. A host of teas, served with assorted finger sandwiches, scones with Devonshire cream and jelly, and delicious small pastries were certain to tide me over until dinnertime. It is most civilized here in this city of over 800,000 people!

After a short rest in my room, it was off to the opening ceremonies of Winterlude held in the ByWard Market Area. Dancers, large puppet-like figures, speeches and fireworks combined to make the family-friendly festival warm our hearts, minds and toes, in the relative (20ºF) cold.

Somehow, all the frustrations of daily life can melt away in the calm and personal warmth of a place like Ottawa, which hasn't lost its charm in the 21st century world - may it always be like that. It's past midnight and time for me to go. More adventures to share tomorrow. Stay Tuned!