If you thought that in the States we had something pretty crazy with Halloween, wait until you spend the annual three-day holiday of October 31, November 1 and November 2 in Oaxaca, Mexico. The Day of The Dead holiday in fall is one of the most colorful and most popular of the city's many festivals, both with tourists and local citizens.

Yes, like Halloween all over America, there are some kids dressed in costume and, like in San Francisco and New York, there are parades down the street as well. But the comparison ends there and to think it’s the same would be missing the point.   This thriving cultural center in southern Mexico's mountainous coastal region is famous for its many indigenous peoples, the handcrafts they produce, and their traditional celebrations such as Noche de Rabanos around Christmas time, and Guelaguetza, a festival of the corn harvest held in July. However, Dia de los Muertos is just one of those once in a lifetime experiences that travel makes possible.

The focus of this very Mexican national holiday is the Celebration of The Dead. The goal, which is to remember the Dead and respect them, is achieved by spending the better part of two days in the local cemeteries, bringing to the graves flowers, favorite foods, pictures and tens of other offerings -- even a Mariachi band -- and sometimes to make paths of flower petals and lit candles that lead right to their graves in case the family ancestors have lost their way.

The first day of the celebrations, the eve of The Day of The Dead, is spent in preparations. First thing in the morning, people go to the huge Oaxaca central market, where we went and where all Oaxacans go, called the Mercado de Abastos. This is where thousands of yellow marigolds and other flowers, nuts, fruits, chocolate balls and all kinds of skulls and skeletons, some home made and some made in China, are sold. 

When everything is ready, in the late afternoon, people go back home and some time is taken for dinner.  The celebration begins late at night and extends into the 1st of November. The streets near the local cemeteries are crowded with tourists and locals. Everyone has bunches of orange and purple flowers, and there are food stands everywhere that stay open all night.

The mood at night is both festive and somber. Large families with children of all ages gather around the graves and, having brought small folding chairs from home for the all-night vigil, they drink mezcal or simply sit.

What impressed me the most was the intense joy along with the seriousness of it all. The connection between the family members, dead and alive, was almost palpable. The vibrant colors that are chosen seem to be a true expression of remembrance and love, and the “spooky” aspect is completely absent.

Performances in costume take place in nearly every square, and the festivities continue till dawn. The next day, people sleep late and then they go to visit the cemeteries once again and, at night, the clean-up crews begin their work and continue into the 2nd day of November.

My Tips for This Trip

To truly see this much of the state of Oaxaca, you should come at another season. The Day of The Dead celebrations, so unique and worthwhile and at their most colorful here and in St. Luis Potosi, are much too crowded for families with young children to be able to enjoy. 

With teen or adult kids, a guide can make this an unforgettable vacation. As mentioned, we were led by Diego Cruz Castaneda of Ayuso Travel  (attayuso@hotmail.com or www.viajesoaxaca.com).  I don't think you need a guide on the 31st or the actual Day of The Dead, because most tourists just follow the crowds after picking up a list of cemeteries of Oaxaca and a map from the local tourist office.

If you have time to stay a few more days, I think it would be nice to consult  with a tour operator like this for touring the greater Oaxaca Valley because it's so large, with so much to see.  For information on hotel rooms and other activities in the region, visit www.oaxaca.travel.

For more pictures and my full blog, see my Mexico's Day of the Dead blog.