"Pirates, ahoy! Ahoy, thee pirates! I'm coming!" So calls out 10-year-old Harold from Manchester, England, as he races down the pier. He's late to join a costumed gang of pirates and their youthful shipmates to crew the beautiful 1749-era M/S Amsterdam. The full-size cargo ship is a replica of VOC vessels used to trade with former Dutch colonies. Today, safely moored on the Amstel River, it is Amsterdam's favorite playground.

Only half the size of Maine, tiny Holland began as a fishing village in the center of Europe's marshy lowlands. After the founding of the VOC (Verenigde Oost Indische or Dutch East India Company) in 1602, overseas commerce and conquest became Holland's main source of wealth. Holland and the Netherlands Antilles (Bonaire, Curaçao, Sint Maarten, St. Eustatius, Saba) are remnants of the Dutch empire also known as The Netherlands. Its picturesque capital, Amsterdam, is a thriving city of 17th-century homes encircled by canals. This is, perhaps, the city's most unique aspect and one that immediately appeals to all children.

Go With The Flow

As first-time visitors, we bypassed Amsterdam's legal Red Light District, state-supported drug clinics, the Homomonument, and other eye-opening aspects of this ultra-liberal city. Instead, we narrowed our family's focus on Amsterdam's maritime culture and used the superb museums to explore Holland's history as a naval power.

Begin at the Netherlands Maritime Museum Amsterdam (+31 (0) 20 5232 222), home of the M/S Amsterdam cited above. Inside the enormous museum is a bounty of ships' models: antique sailboats, schooners, warships and pleasure craft. There are countless treasures indoors and out, where artillery and cannons have become sturdy objects to climb on. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am-5pm, except in the summer when it is open seven days a week.

[Editor's Note: On January 8, 2007, the Netherlands Maritime Museum closed its doors for renovations. Although it should take nearly two years to complete, once it reopens, the museum will be completely refurbished and will be able to accommodate the recent increase in visitors, provide easier access to exhibits and also allow the 350 year old building to have climate control.]

Once the country's colonial period has captured your family's imagination, visit the ethnographic museum's displays of life in Batavia (now Jakarta, Indonesia ruled by the Dutch for 150 years), Africa, Latin America, and the Caribbean (all conquered by the WIC/ West India Company). The Tropenmuseum (+31 (0) 20 5688 200), Linnaeusstraat 2 next to Oosterpark, has life-like exhibits embellished with photo collages and indigenous music in a surround-sound learning environment. Huts, yurts, longboats and more are peopled by costumed wax figures from various cultures. The Kindermuseum (+31 (0)20 5688 711) is within the building, and offers multicultural children's activities in Dutch only, by reservation only. The 90-minute sessions given Wednesday, weekends, and holidays are only for kids 6-12. The fun continues nearby at the Dappermarkt Street Market and the Artis Zoo. Here a great zoo, geology museum, greenhouses, and an aquarium provide lots of leg-stretching.

The Van Gogh Museum (+31 (0) 20 5705 200) at Paulus Potterstraat 7, admittedly a remarkable collection, was a tough-to-justify stop on my son's itinerary, though severed ear stories gave us enough time to glide through several galleries. The Rijksmuseum (+31 (0) 20 6747 000), Jan Luijkenstraat 1, though famous for its Dutch Renaissance collection, was much more successful. We traded a leisurely stroll through the galleries for a few kid-friendly side trips. Begin in Rm. 164 to admire the intricate miniatures and the awesome 17th-century "Doll's House of Petronella Oortman," all fascinating for anyone over age 5. The Asiatic Art collection features some X-men style Japanese Edo armor worn by samurai and kris, Indonesian curved-blade swords thought to bring magical powers to the wearer. Best of all is the Dutch History collection downstairs. There you'll find arms and armor left by explorers from an Arctic expedition of 1597, nine huge models of VOC trading ships, and the double-decker William Rex man-of-war ship. Or if you don't wish to explore on your own, for €1 your kids who are 6-12 can take the tour with Gordon the Warden. They will be lead through the museum in search for five masterpieces: the aforementioned model ships and doll's house, as well as two portraits of Amsterdam's most powerful citizens, a fine mess by Jan Steen and finally Rembrandt's "The Night Watch." Tickets for this exciting pursuit through the Rijksmuseum are sold at the Information Desk.

The Anne Frankhuis (+31 (0) 20 5567 100) at Prinsengracht 267 was home to the celebrated teen author Anne Frank. Her stirring diary of life under the Nazi terror was discovered after her death and has been translated into 55 languages. Words cannot convey the experience of touring the family's secret chambers; it's as evocative for children as it is for adults. Around the corner, somehow appropriate, is the Greenpeace Shop (Leliegracht 53, Centrum) with neat-for-teens beach towels, souvenirs, T-shirts, etc.

Navigation Tools

As charming as Amsterdam is, easy-to-locate transportation and well-sign-posted streets are not its strong suit. We recommend an early visit to Central Station. Located in the city's heart, it is a large train terminal with flower, film, and shoe-repair shops, banks, phone card vendors, the main trolley terminal, a canal boat stop, and a branch of the city's excellent VVV Tourist Office. Don't hesitate to look for brochures and essential maps. The Amsterdam Pass, sold by the VVV, is a terrific value. It provides discounted transport and tours, free or discounted museum admissions, restaurant bargains, and even a city map. The Museumboot and the Canal Bus are both a really fun way to get around.

"Yikes, bikes!" Amsterdam's official bike lanes parallel the sidewalks, so pedestrians always have to look both ways before venturing into the street. In a city with 1,200 bridges and more than 550,000 bicycles, a guided tour by bike might be just your family's speed. Yellow Bike Guided Tours (+31 (0) 20 6206 940) offers 3-hour city rides and 6-hour countryside rides. Holland is a delightfully flat country and these are excursions that even young children can manage. There are also many neighborhood daily bike-rentals.

Because Amsterdam is not inexpensive, you might prefer to pay for purchases with your credit card. Beware! Many establishments only accept ANB bank debit cards or cash. And while we're on the subject of money, don't leave port without souvenirs. Some great, easy-to-carry gifts include Dutch biscuits, cheese, and packets of those wonderful colored sprinkles that the Dutch serve on breakfast toast. If you miss the grocery store in town (they're hard to find), there's a terrific one at Schipol Airport (as well as a wonderful indoor playground and nursery.) As for tulips or other flower bulbs, readers planning to bring them into the US should only buy at the airport, where florists have them "certified" to clear US Customs' stringent agricultural laws.

"All ashore that's going ashore." Ready?