With three steep mountains hidden amongst towering evergreens, Keystone illustrates the old adage: “There’s more than meets the eye.”  The “more” here is the breadth of terrain that has made it a popular snowsports getaway for Denver’s Front Range families for the past 35 years. Yet that hidden terrain (and many "in-the-know" attractions) also make Keystone somewhat mysterious for first-timers, who will need several days to discover just how much this very large resort has to offer. 

Here's what we found in a February 2005 visit, starting with a journal kept by our 13-year-old son, Regan:

“In addition to the fact that we were 12,000-feet above sea level, I lost my breath when our snow and dirt-covered car pulled up to our condo at Colorado’s Keystone Mountain Resort. The condo windows looked right up the slopes, which looked fantastic. I couldn’t wait to go out on the mountain. But before I could put on my coat and lace up my boots, I was throwing up all over the bathroom. Altitude sickness had set in. To my disappointment, I spent the rest of the day in the condo reading bad mystery novels and watching “Forrest Gump.”

Exploring The Slopes & Mountain Dining

My family stayed at River Run, an Intrawest-designed complex that is part of the "Keystone Evolution," or upgrading and modernizing initiative launched by owner Vail Resorts.  Lively River Run has made Keystone’s old base at Mountain House seem tired. This new, car-free base village is at the mountain chain’s east end, themed like an old Colorado mining town, with high-end boutiques, hip bars, wine bars and java shops tucked behind distressed wood facades. The elegantly furnished, expertly maintained condos are clustered at one end and share a pool and hot tubs with mountain views. From the River Run condos, it’s about a five-minute walk to the gondola and high speed lift that run to the top of Dercum Mountain, the shortest of the three summits.

Dercum (formerly Keystone), the main peak of this 2,722-acre resort, has one-third of its beginner terrain and the largest area lit for night skiing and snowboarding in the state. First-timers are surprised when they alight at the summit to see a large restaurant, ski school meeting places, the Adventure Point tubing park, and lifts and runs extending to the two other mountains.

Our snowboarder Regan was surprised, too. He writes, “Coming from New York City, 11,640 feet is pretty tall to me and once I got on the top of Dercum, I was not disappointed. Without walking a step from the top of the lift, there were at least six trails that I could take, all of which looked fun. I took a small one to warm up, and much to my delight, it ended up in Keystone’s terrain park, Area 51, which is amazing.”

In January of 2006, almost 300 acres of expert-only hiking and snowcat ski/ride terrain east of the summit of Dercum Mountain in the upper reaches of Independence Bowl was opened to guests. According to a resort spokesperson, the new terrain offers "an in-bounds backcountry-light skiing and riding experience to the chutes and steeper pitches of Independence Bowl."

The closest trails from the Dercum gondola extend out to North Peak, whose scenic summit boasts two of the resort’s finest restaurants. The densely wooded mountain hosts  narrow steeps, long winding cruisers, and mogul fields appropriate for intermediate level and above skiers.

“North Peak is more rugged sking, and doesn’t have any beginner trails, and only a few intermediate ones,” notes Regan, “but it was very well groomed.”

Our favorite lunch was at La Bonte’s Cabin at the North Peak base. This casual indoor/outdoor dining spot nestled in the woods serves some great fish tacos and wraps. Bundled against the falling snow at picnic tables, we were surprised to look back and enjoy spectacular views up the slopes.

The next evening, we dressed up (still casual) and returned to the Timber Ridge Room atop North Peak. Our reservation was at Der Fondue Chessel, which shares the mountaintop lodge with the fancier Alpenglow Stube. Enclosed by thick stone walls, under towering wooden beams, and in front of a roaring fire, we admired the boisterous Bavarian Oom Pah Band and wait staff dressed in lederhosen. Der Fondue Chessel’s menu includes a rich fondue, the classic melted cheese potion, accompanied by a huge platter of cubed French bread, vegetables, and choice of meats and seafood. The rituals of caring for the Sterno can, stirring the cheese, handling the tiny forks, delivering the cheese-coated meat to your plates entranced the whole family. By the time the salads and cheese pot were replaced by a large vat of melted chocolate, with plates of biscuits and fruit chunks, we were totally exhausted. The fixed price is $50 per adult and $25 per child ages 7-12 (one child 6 and under dines free per adult) for a very special and totally worthwhile evening.

Although we didn’t try the Alpenglow Stube, we heard their elaborate lunchtime buffet and a la carte menu was terrific, and we certainly noticed that skiers and riders could exchange their footwear for a pair of fuzzy slippers while dining in the attractive main room.

North Peak’s eastern trails lead to the foot of the 12,200-foot-tall Outback Mountain, the resort’s most remote terrain with intermediate and expert runs. Here, the densely wooded runs, steep chutes, 861 acres of above-treeline bowls including the new Bergman and Erickson bowls, and glade skiing have long been open only to hearty hikers and ski patrol. Keystone’s recent “Evolution” has brought Snowcat service to this newly expanded terrain.

Super Snowboarding & Freestyle Parks

Keystone’s Area 51 has been lionized by Ski and Transworld Snowboarder as one of North America’s top terrain parks, and is at the heart of the resort’s campaign to lure a younger crowd to its facilities. Your kids may have seen it in the annual Sports Illustrated Nextsnow Search competition, in which young skiers and riders  compete for recognition.
 
Regan gave the 66-acre Area 51 park high marks: “The big park, Area 51, had some of the biggest jumps I had ever seen. It also had a huge collection of stairs, boxes and rails, including the longest rail in the world (150-feet-long).”  In the 2004-2005 season, Keystone extended its beginner terrain, where lessons are given (helmets required) to ensure its allure to families with novice skiers and riders. 

“Keystone has a smaller terrain park called the Incubator, right next to Area 51, which I tried out,” continues Regan. “They have a huge collection of boxes and rails, but only a few jumps. At the bottom of the park there’s a double lift that takes you right to the top of the park again. The trails below the terrain park were also very fun.”

The terrain park and 20 trails on the front of Dercum Mountain are open for night skiing until 8pm. Regan found it enjoyable, while his parents found night skiing exhilarating but a bit nerve-wracking, because the few runs that were lit were surprisingly crowded with young couples out for a good time. Aaaahhh, where have those days gone?

Non-Skiers Have So Much Fun, Too

Lakeside Village is at the resort’s west end, a 7-mile, 15-minute-by-shuttle ride from the River Run base. It is the basecamp for most of the resort’s active convention and meetings business.  This is also the non-skier and summer visitor’s preferred base, because its full service Keystone Lodge, managed by the luxury experts Rock Resorts, and many low-lying condos hug the large Keystone Lake. This, in turn, becomes the largest Zamboni-maintained skating rink in North America each December.

We rented skates and joined a really fun Hockey Clinic there (the casual, two-hour clinics adapted to various ability levels are given a few afternoons each week throughout winter).  Lakeside Village has several nice shops and some restaurants, but its top attractions are the funky bar with music where the skate rentals (and other activities) happen, and Pizza on the Plaza. Both are popular hang-outs with local and visiting teens and very lively in the evening.

In the middle is Mountain House, the resort's original basecamp. Although it's funky and old-fashioned in feel compared to the rest, that's part of its appeal to teens, who love its sub shop, gear rental and tuning outfit, and small arcade.  We liked the area's reassuring small town feel, too; Mountain House is close to the terrain parks but you never feel the kids will get lost in the vastness that is Keystone. Many of the resort's condo clusters are nearby, and the free Keystone shuttle parallels the river right through it.

At the River Run Village, guest who want to stick to terra firma can tote the little ones over to Energy Alley, a small play area with inflatable games and a bounce area. Snow-bound sightseers can join a 12-person Snowcat Adventure Tour that departs from the summit of Dercum and features a scenic view of the Ten Mile Range’s 14,000-foot peaks.  Dercum’s Adventure Point Yurt is also the place to rent Sno-Hawg bikes and slopecycles; gadgets that come with instruction and a guided tour. The snowbikes have a ski instead of wheels and are balanced by outstretched legs; on slopecycles, each wheel is replaced by a small snowboard.  Keystone’s tubing runs are also top notch, with four parallel, well groomed grooves extending down a very long slope, and enthusiastic attendants who like to spin the kids. Other than the Snowcat tours, these activities are available day or night.

At the Nordic Center, there’s cross-country skiing by day and 90-minute, guided snowshoe tours by night, for families and kids above age 12.

Keystone offers a Wagon Ride Dinner year-round that departs from Lakeside Village in a horse-drawn wagon or sleigh, depending on conditions. The summer menu ($45/adult and $30/under 12s; under 3s are free) features barbecue chicken, ribs and corn on the cob, while the heartier winter menu ($70/adults, $35/under 12s; under 3s free) offers biscuits and hunters stew in a restored ranch homestead.

Ski & Snowboarding Classes

The Keystone University ski and snowboarding school offers an impressive array of classes that meet at the base of Dercum in River Run village, or at the Mountain House basecamp. The Penguin Camps for 4 to 6-year-olds (5-year-old minimum for snowboarding), praised by Ski magazine, follow each full-day program with a parent-teacher conference and an achievement pin for each student.

Classes for 5 to 12-year-olds take advantage of Dercum Mountain’s special kids’ facilities, a few Western-themed, fenced-in areas with bumps, small jumps and glades, outlined in a for-kids Adventure Zone map. For ages 13 and up, classes are divided into four basic ability levels and meet at the top of Dercum Mountain. Beginner skiers get treated to excellent new carved skis that make everything easier to learn, and snowboarders can take the Burton LTR program on special boards.

As they advance to intermediate level and higher, Keystone University students of all ages head out to the 1,640-foot-long University Trail, a dedicated learning trail that provides newcomers with security.  There are other incentives to enroll kids in classes: in the 2005 season, every fifth lesson was free and students received discounted equipment rental rates; call 800/255-3715 for class reservations.

Infant & Toddler Daycare Facilities

There are two well-run daycare centers at Keystone, but because they each take less than a dozen infants (many from Colorado families who are acclimated to the high altitude), you’ll have to book a spot in advance of your arrival. With 20 years' experience, the original one is at Mountain House (west end of the resort), tucked into the busy base lodge near the cafeteria and gear rental shop. Throughout Keystone’s long history of dedication to family snowsports, it has housed the Learn To Ski program for ages 3+. Here, each teacher takes four little ones and introduces them to putting on skis and outerwear, French Fry stops and turns, interspersed with some indoor crafts, snacks and play time.

The River Run Children’s Center is in the Silvermill Building, and it’s a bright, lively room with large windows overlooking the pedestrian village. Both centers have a Snowplay program for 3 to 6-year-olds who may not be ready or interested in conquering the slopes ($95/full day or $80/half day). Both are open daily during the winter season from 8am-4pm, and in summer from Thursday to Monday only, 9am-4pm. Children enrolled in any of the programs who display symptoms of illness are not allowed back before 24 hours, but the centers will provide a list of local babysitters (some of whom are on staff) who will babysit in your room, day or night, with advance reservations. During the peak winter and summer weeks, the centers run a Kids Night Out program with pizza and a movie; it’s $20 per child.

Infants 2 to12-months (or up to 15-months, if not walking yet) are cared for by childcare staff trained in Infant CPR and 1st Aid, who are background-checked by the resort and maintain a 1:3 ratio. The bright nursery room is equipped with cribs, high chairs, swings and walkers; parents are asked to provide bottles, baby food, a change of clothes, and six diapers per child per day.  The large toddler room accommodates children 1- and 2-years with a variety of toys, some cribs and cots, books and music. High chairs are in place to feed two snacks and one hot meal during the day, but parents of allergic children are asked to bring their own food. One caregiver is assigned to every five children, and at their discretion, toddlers with appropriate outerwear may participate in a half-hour snow play and outdoor time.

Details, Details

Keystone is easy to get to; it’s about an hour-and-a-half by car or shuttle from Denver International Airport. According to owner Vail Resorts, it is the fourth most visited ski and snowboard resort in the nation, so their ongoing investment in improvements should be no surprise. Lift line crowds and a sold-out daycare center should be no surprise either. As soon as you make travel plans, contact the childcare centers at 800/255-3715, ext 4181 or 970/496-4181 to reserve a place for your children.

In past years, the skiing season has been mid-November to mid-April, with the heaviest snows typically falling in February and March (average snowfall is 230” or 584 cm.). In 2005’s slower weeks, the huge two-bedroom condos at River Run rented for $400 per person for a four-night, four-day lift ticket package based on four occupants. (On-mountain guests also receive an Adventure Passport which includes family coupons for a free one-time yoga session, NASTAR race, ice skating and other activities.)  

For more information on accommodations and upcoming ski specials, call 877/753-9786 or 970/496-4500 or visit http://keystone.snow.com/. To book any of the many activities or inquire about off-campus pursuits like snowmobiling, call 970-496-4FUN.

Sums up Regan, “Overall, Keystone was a wonderful experience.” All agreed.