Sometimes in our travels we encounter a perfect place to sleep, one so in sync with its cultural and physical environment that our journey is transformed. The very adventure of 'living like the locals' is enough to dispel our family's usual demand for wired, boxspring'ed, air-conditioned comfort. These places are often small (intimate), family-run (great with kids), very simply furnished in the local style (rustic), inexpensive (for us), and scenically situated off the beaten path - rarely in a town we thought we'd visit for very long. That's what makes them such a find, and to be there, wherever there may be, is enough of a reason to come. Let's take a look at what Brazil's Pantanal, Japan's Takayama and Turkey's Cappadocia regions have to offer in the way of environmentally sensitive resorts.

Brazil: Pantanal Welcomes Families

The Ministry of Tourism likes to describe the Pantanal of central Brazil in deserved superlatives: it is the most bio-diverse region in the world, with 4,000 miles of beach-lined coast free of hurricanes or earthquakes. More than 700 species of birds, reptile, wild cats, deer and monkeys populate the world's largest freshwater wetlands. At its heart in the Caiman Ecological Refuge is the Caiman Lodge, where families can explore the region by horseback, canoe, small motorized boat, by foot, or on photo safari, or fish for any of the 260 species populating the surrounding waters.

Four guest lodges dot the 131,000-acre property: the main lodge typifies the pantaneiros farming lifestyle; two others are rustic waterfront units on stilts. Each has a pool, a buffet restaurant, bar and reading lounge with TV; simply furnished rooms have ceiling fans and A/C, hammocks and private bathrooms.

Daily rates begin at $128 p.p. triple occupancy; children 3-12 years start at $96 each in parents' room. Two eco-activities daily led by local, bilingual Portugese/English guides, evening lectures, all meals and insurance are included in rates; certain river excursions and in the summer, a cattle drive (!) are adrenalin-producing activities for a fee. December through March are rainy and buggy; the dry months of July through September can be cold at night, but are ideal for wildlife viewing. Contact your travel agent or Caiman directly at 55 11.3079-6622; fax 55 11.3079-6037.

Japan: Takayama's Ryokan Fits the Bill

On our maiden visit to Japan, eager to understand the culture and partake of things uniquely Japanese, we were determined to spend at least one night in a ryokan (a traditional inn with woven tatami floors and futons for bedding) and eat kaiseki, the multi-course feast of artistically prepared, locally grown foods. Resisting high-priced Kyoto, we planned a weekend at a mountain town in central Honshu known as "Little Kyoto."

This town, Takayama, is popular with young Japanese celebrating their heritage and tourists interested in religious festivals. The century-old Ryokan Sumiyoshi (81/577/33-0288, fax 81/577/33-8916) is situated on the bank of the gurgling Miyagawa River. At check-in, a kimono-clad hostess waved to the shoe rack with slippers for everyone in the family. Our second floor room boasted a low teak table for tea, a few Ming blue vases, rice paper lanterns for reading, a view of the river, and three rolled-up futons covered in red silk.

Our adventure was time travel, to hike the neighboring hills in search of old temples, dine cross legged on the floor, sample roots and vegetables carved into flowers and animals, bathe in a custom-drawn onsen each evening where father and son splashed in one room while Mom soaked in hers.

We rented bicycles for a daytrip to the fascinating Hida Folk Village, where we toured historic homes from the 1600s-1700s and read about their occupants. We tried many sushi places, got lost often, visited several restored merchants homes along San-machi Suji, and bought some highly coveted Hida Shunkei lacquerware from craftsmen who used age-old techniques.

And what did it cost? Rates start around $58 p.p. nightly with breakfast (30% less for children) plus $41-$49 each for a divine kaiseki. For more information about adventures in Takayama and the Hida region, visit the virtual Hida Tourist Information Office website, or call 81/577/32-5328.

Turkey: Cave Dwellings

When it comes to unusual regional architecture, few countries can match Turkey, where Ottoman caravanserai and historic palaces are often remodeled into chic, Oriental rug-draped abodes. In a similarly indigenous style, but in a more remote locale frequented by hikers and archeology buffs, is the Elkep Evlri Inn, cut into the soft volcanic tufa of Cappadocia.

Family travelers might reach this part of central Anatolia after a climb up Mt. Ararat (where Noah's Ark was said to land), or a performance of the Whirling Dervishes at Konya, or a tour of the area's fine Selçuk architecture, or some fun on Antalya's Aqua Park waterslides. Like us, you'll come to tour the dripping sand-castle-like cities hidden in ancient Cappadocia, now the Goreme National Park. Many are said to date from 4000 B.C., others were built by Christians out of fear, and if you can stand the valley's heat, the region guarantees days of exploration.

Although there are mod-cons in your cave hotel, rest assured that the facade is totally in sync with its ancient environment. Doubles with breakfast cost from $90, triples from $110; book it at www.cappadociaonline.com. For information about touring Turkey, visit www.tourismturkey.org.