At a recent luncheon (a delicious one I might add) in New York for Switzerland Tourism, a gathering of journalists had a rare opportunity to sample the gourmet fare of Ticino.  In terms of the culinary arts, Ticino is well known as “the land of great chefs. " From the 15^th century, when local Maestro Martino went to cook for the Sforza dynasty that ruled Milan, to more recent cooks whose restaurants have been awarded Michelin stars, this canton (or province) bordering Italy has produced many notables.

Ticino is in south central Switzerland approximately 120kms south of Zurich. Its most easily recognized landmarks are Locarno and Ascona on the Lago Maggiore, and Lugano on the lake of the same name, just 70kms from Milan. But it is in the lesser known villages and valleys along the E35 motorway that the tradition of the grottos, osterie and canvetti (simple rural taverns) has prevailed. These country restaurants are best enjoyed as the goal of a full day’s outing dedicated to feasting. It’s not an experience related to the punctuality of Swiss time; even children understand how many hours can be devoted to the fine Italian art of dining. Located typically in small houses of Ticinese architecture, the grottos leave the interior to the needs of the kitchen and seat guests outdoors, usually in large shaded gardens around family-style granite tables.

Making Stomachs Happy

Ever-changing menus make use of fresh, locally grown products to produce the daily fare. Specialties influenced by the northern Italian cuisine of Lombardy and Piedmont tend to be versions of a favorite soup such as minestrone; a rich flavored rice dish like risotto; or a typical preparation of finely ground corn meal into cakes or polenta. Entrees might include a veal dish prepared similarly to the Italian vitello tonnato; sausages; bresaola, an air-dried beef served salted, sliced very thin, with lemon and parmesan; chicken liver pâté; roast beef and rabbit stews; or various marinated fish from the local lakes. This area is also known for its buckwheat, used for making gnocchi puffs or pizzocheri, a hearty dish of broad buckwheat noodles blanketed in melted cheese and cooked greens. Entrees are followed by local cheeses, marinated peaches and bread cake; the amaretti (amaretto flavored, twice-baked biscuits) are special treats usually brought back as gifts to those less fortunate who couldn’t be there in person. For wine, many prefer the Ticino Merlot, cultivated since the turn of the century from the vines in France’s Bordeaux region (currently 83% of the region’s output). The Nostrano or Barbera are popular too, especially when mixed with gazzosa (a local lemon soda) and served in a boccalino wine jug. Some recommended grottos include the Grotto della Polenta, Grotto Conza in Rovio, the hilltop Eremo San Nicolao in Somazzo, the Grotto Scarpape in Giubiasco and the Osteria Calprino in Paradiso. Several guidebooks, among them Slow Food’s “Osterie d’Italia” review these places in depth.

Touring the Ticino Region

How, we asked our new found friends, can families best enjoy a tour of the region? The Lugano Tourist Office (41/091/913 32 32) suggests that from a central base, the first day can be spent visiting the historical town of Bellinzona to see the local castle, then strolling under the porticos surrounding the Piazza Grande of Locarno and shopping along the Via Cittadella. Don’t miss the church of San Francesco, known for its fine frescoes, and the picturesque lake front. After a leisurely lunch, board a boat for a cruise to the Brissago Islands to see the botanical park. On any given day, you may have the added pleasure of arriving on the local market day, or finding a small regional crafts shop. Day 2 should be an all-day excursion north to the Valle Leventina. At Airolo, you can stop and visit a demonstration dairy, take a cablecar ride, rent bikes from the station for a beautiful ride south on local roads to Biasca (and leave the bikes at their station), and stop at the small historical museum on the St. Gotthard Pass. The next day, take the Centovalli train to Verdasio, then the funicular or funivia to enjoy the fresh air of Rasa or the Comino mountains. At Intragna, families will want to stop at the "nucleo" the climb the highest belltower in Ticino. Trains run frequently back to Locarno in time for your evening meal. On Day 4, make the drive south to see the historic parts of Lugano and the Ciani Park, then check the schedule for a boat trip on the lake to Melide, with a stop at Swissminiatur’s collection of intricately detailed villages and tableaux. After a hearty meal and a break, you can walk from Lugano to Castagnola and Gandria and visit the Customs Museum, or go to Caslano for the chocolate museum. With a fifth day, you can make the trip to Monte Generoso on the cog train from Capolago. There you can visit the caves known as Grotta degli Orsi.

Family-Friendly Lodging

In Lugano, the lakefront Hotel International au Lac (41/091/0922 75 41) and the Hotel Campione Restaurant All’Arco (41/091/640 16 16), with a big pool and kiddie pool, just 4 miles south, are both good family choices. This region is also popular for agriturismo, the Italian tradition of farm stays that enable families to meet farm animals, milk cows or watch harvesting (see www.agriturismo.ch for some ideas). La Sosta (41/091/609 17 33) is a cheese and charcuterie producer in the village of Malcantone welcoming visitors from Easter to late October each year. Blenio TourRustici (41/091/871 19 71; www.rustici.ch) specializes in managing and renting rustici, original cattle sheds that have been converted into holiday housing with kitchens. Their catalog of apartments and rustici are most often in the countryside and provide an adventurous and inexpensive base for the independent family. More family apartments and furnished houses can be found through www.capanneti.ch). In the village of Bellinzona, a gorgeous institutional building attached to the Montebello Castle (a UNESCO World Heritage site) has become a youth hostel known as Youth Hotel Bellinzona TI, with private and family rooms in addition to dorms (41/091/825 15 22; www.bellinzona.ch).  Not far away, the Hotel La Perla (41/091/850 29 50) is a comfortable, moderately priced, full service alternative with a pool, restaurant, many four-bedded rooms and a welcome mat for the family dog.

The best times to visit are April through October, with the mid-July Estival Jazz in Lugano and the early August International Film Festival in Locarno being very busy periods. The film festival, when new movies are projected out of doors under the night sky around the piazza, is especially fun with children. By the way, the Geneva-based low-fare carrier, Flybaboo.com, serves the region from many gateways. For more information, visit www.ticino-tourism.ch