If you happen to be down Bahamas-way, chances are you're in Nassau, the main port of New Providence Island. This busy town, capital of the British ruled Commonwealth of the Bahama Islands, first came into tourist focus after Cuba was closed to Americans in the early 60s. Over time, the mojito bars and souvenir shops lost their charm, but in recent years, the government has cleaned Nassau up and the strains of calypso fill the air once again. The island's temperate climate, gentle breezes, aquamarine water, calm surf, and white sand beaches remain unbeatable. Coupled with cheap, quick flights from America's East Coast; a solid infrastructure; publicity from several MTV series and big budget blockbusters filmed here; and tighter security; friendly Nassau has reclaimed its tourism edge.

Around Nassau Town

Although most visitors come for the beach, any giveaway map will highlight the town's cultural and historic highlights: Victorian-era mansions, cathedrals, and the early 19th-century government buildings of Parliament Square make for fun day excursions. Multi-cultural Nassau -- discovered by Columbus in 1492 for the Spanish crown, ruled as a British colony since the mid-1600s, periodically overcome by pirates -- is especially popular with African American families.

Along the port promenade, know as Woodes Roger's Walk, is the Pompey Museum of Slavery and Emancipation, the former Vendue House where slaves arrivng from Africa were auctioned to New World masters. Look for the Queen's Staircase at the end of Elizabeth Avenue, formerly an escape route built by slaves to aid soldiers stationed at Fort Fincastle; the 65 steps lead to a wonderful overview of this pastel town.  There's even an organized open-air hair-braiding salon where families can choose from among the many licensed beauticians who create one hair braid entwined with beads at a time.

Inland, Bay Street parallels the shore and is the main shopping street. The famed Straw Market (the original outdoor mall), which actually used to sell items made of straw, can be entered from Bay Street or the port walk. It's next to the site of the old Fort Nassau, now the classic British Colonial Hilton Nassau Hotel (242/322-3301; One Bay Street, Nassau, Bahamas N-7148) where Bond films "Thunderball" and "Never Say Never Again" were shot.  In this Straw Market, you're much more likely to see knock-off Chanel and Fendi bags, Kate Spade wallets, pseudo Rolex watches, tin toys imported from Mexico and ugly rayon sundresses than straw baskets. But keep your eyes open for inexpensive mother-of-pearl shell jewelry, handmade batik fabrics, and fun coconut sculpture and you're sure to find a great souvenir.

Among the more unusual shops on Bay Street is the classic Linen Shop, where women can find beautiful lacework, table cloths and napkins, adorable veddy British (and veddy dressy) children's clothes, and a surprising variety of beautifully made gift items and crafts. We found one-stop-shopping at Tropic Traders for all the T-shirts, hammered-tin souvenirs, and plastic beach toys we could carry. The Tortuga Bakery and Retail Shop features those ubiquitous rum cakes packed in nifty pirate treasure map boxes but, in the interest of full disclosure, these scrumptious souvenirs actually originate in the Cayman Islands.

At Del Sol, kids will get a kick out of seeing all the clothing and toys that change color when exposed to sunlight -- that's right, Del Sol's specialty is selling Frisbees that are white in the store and bright purple on the beach, or polo shirts whose logos go from green to red when exposed to ultra-violet light. You can test this out yourself,  because salespeople carry around blacklight fixtures. It's fun and the kids will be amazed. The men in your family may appreciate the styles at Bonneville Bones on Bay at the corner of George Streets. In addition to the usual tropical fare, this shop has a nice collection of linen Guayabera shirts (the classic square cut pleated shirt) made popular by Cuban superstars.

From here, take a few minutes to walk inland and admire the pastel stucco and wood-shingled cottages of the old Nassau. Then stroll back down to the modern Prince George Wharf to ogle visiting cruise ships, now moored in  the sheltered harbor prized by Blackbeard and generations of pirates and sailors.  The Bahamian government has done a classy redevelopment of this area, as well, so that all structures around the cruise port and nearby marina (the place to catch ferries to Paradies Island, all day on the half-hour) conform to the country's postcard-perfect traditional cottage style.

Family-Welcoming Resorts

Nassau and its neighbor Paradise Island boast a wide range of resorts, some B&Bs and hotels in every price range, and good international restaurants (though none beat, for price and quality, the typical, family-run Bahamian conch shacks seen along the roadsides). Cable Beach is just 15 minutes from the Lynden Pindling International Airport and is Nassau's largest. In 2005, a company called Cable Beach Resorts took over the operations at three popular hotels --Wyndham, now the Wyndham Nassau Resort; the former Radisson, which was totally renovated to become the Sheraton Cable Beach Resort; and the Nassau Beach Hotel, closed as of 2008 for renovations -- to create one huge resort complex, the Cable Beach Resorts & Crystal Palace Casino.  Adjacent to the hotels is the West Bay Village shopping and entertainment complex, with several restaurants as well as commercial and local government offices, all done in a typical Bahamian style. 

Guests (conventioneers and some families) occupying the 1,900 rooms at these hotels can enjoy the beach, golf, tennis, and most other activities at all three of the properties, no matter where they stay. However, the sheer size of the complex and the lure of its casino make it less of a family destination than in the past. We've also heard complaints that when the hotels are busy, there are not enough restaurant tables to go around. Never mind, it gives families more opportunity to try the Poop Deck on the Yacht Haven Marina bridge overlooking Paradise Island, or its little sister, Poop Deck SandyPort in Cable Beach, where cracked conch, conch chowder and the day's catch await.

The Sheraton Cable Beach Resort (242/327-6000; P.O. Box N-4914, West Bay Street, Nassau, Bahamas) opened in the summer of 2007 with 694 attractively redone guest rooms and suites featuring balconies. It's already a popular family choice because the seven-acre property is laced with water features, including three freshwater pools, waterfalls, a swim-up bar and large Jacuzzis. There's private babysitting and a supervised kids' camp.

Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino (800/222-7466, 242/327-6200; Post Office Box N-8306, West Bay Street, Nassau, Bahamas) has a kids club that operates Thursdays-Saturdays for children ages 4 and older; the counselors are CPR-certified and 1st-Aid trained.  The resort also has fitness and spa facilities, a pool with a two-story private waterslide, watersports equipment, and a 35,000-square-foot casino.

The Atlantis Resort (800/ATLANTIS; Casino Drive, Paradise Island, New Providence Island, Bahamas 6307) has emerged from several years of expansion. Now a popular shore excursion for many cruise ships, Atlantis makes every effort to funnel daytrippers into its elegant Marina Village mall, where cute Island architecture, pricey conch fritters (Bimini World), great Italian fare (Carmine's) and ice cream shops (Cold Stone Creamery) entertain the kids. Elegant duds (Versace boutique among many others), jewelry, real estate offices, and pleasant outdoor cafes provide a haven for adults. If you wander over to the resort's main lobby, don't miss the Dale Chihuly chandeliers in the casino, said to be the largest in the Caribbean. While you're inside looking out, paying resort guests enjoy fantastic waterslides emanating from a Mayan pyramid, several pool areas, a pretty interior lagoon for boating, Lazy River, terrific fitness center and highly-regarded golf course. (To get past the velvet ropes, you can purchase a $150/day pass.)

Families who book at Atlantis will appreciate the new Cove Tower condominium, additional hotel rooms, a grand Aquaventure water park, a fully established marina, and the three older hotels (priced from moderate to sky high) clustered around the water playground that made this resort so popular. Expanded family offerings include teen facility called Club Rush, infant products and amenities, a wonderful Discovery Camp for ages 4-12, and Aqua Tots -- an educational fish feeding event that enable little ones ages 3+ to get up close and personal with the 50,000 marine animals residing among the "ruins" and other mythical debris from the lost civilization. 

Bargain seekers will appreciate the Comfort Suites Paradise Island Resort (242/363-3680; Paradise Island Drive, Paradise Island, Bahamas) where families of 4 may include kids under 12 at no extra charge in the spacious rooms. Amenities include coffeemakers, minifridges and ironing setups in each room; the hotel also offers free continental breakfast and a pleasant outdoor pool with sundeck and bar. The perk here is that registered guests can make use of Atlantis' facilities, including the many swimming pools, private beach, waterparks, Lazy River innertube ride, fitness room, tennis, and Kids Camp (for a fee), and sign away any charges to their Comfort Suites room bill. At substantially less than a night at the Atlantis.

Hotel Riu Paradise Island (888/666-8816; Casino Drive, Paradise Island, New Providence Island, Bahamas 6307) is more compact than some of their other resorts, but families can expect the same good service and all-inclusive features that this Spanish chain is noted for. Best asset is the 3-mile stretch of white sandy beach adjacent to the Atlantis. Because food and activities are pricey on Paradise Island, having a base at a place where meals are included is a big plus. And when you're ready to big time it for the kids, stroll over the gorgeous One & Only Ocean Club where the latest Bond flick -- "Casino Royale" -- was lovingly filmed.

In Nassau, as at many Bahamian islands, the Christmas - New Year's weeks are peak season, with tourist interest fanned by the annual, singing and dancing and costumed Junkanoo Parade at New Year's -- the closest festival to Mardi Gras that this island enjoys. For the best hotel deals, visit the Bahamas in the summer months, when kids' clubs rates can be up to 50% off, and room rates are significantly reduced. June's the month to stop by Arawak Cay, because when the Junakanoo In June Festival occurs, the place goes wild. Year round, this islet west of the British Colonial Hilton boasts the town's Friday Night Fish Fry, when local chefs man tiny shacks with grills to produce the most authentic Bahamian cuisine accompanied by music and dance.

Information about Nassau and Paradise Island, with a special guide for family travelers, is available at www.nassauparadiseisland.com