Over a recent school break, my son and I visited the new Superclubs Breezes Costa do Sauipe resort in Bahia, Brazil and found children and Easter eggs everywhere! Bursting out of the resort's 324 sold-out rooms were 96 children under 18 years having a very, very good time.

We chose Brazil above other Breezes family resorts in Curaçao and the Dominican Republic because of my career-long interest in ecotourism and my 11-year-old's study of rain forest ecology. We had read that the Costa do Sauipe recreation complex was developed during the 1990's in an Environmental Protection Area known as Costa dos Coqueiros (Coconut Tree Coast) in conjunction with a flora and fauna rescue and monitoring program. The 425-acre site is magnificent in its diversity:  the gold sand beach facing the ocean borders mangrove, dunes, several rivers including the Sauipe, sweet water lagoons, coconut plantations, cattle ranches, lively fishing ports and a portion of the Mata Atlantica rain forest. After an investment estimated at US$6 billion by The New York Times, the purpose-built leisure complex opened in October, 2000 and was immediately proclaimed "Brazil's Cancún."

A British Columbia-based travel writer and her 13-year-old son agreed with us that the Sauipe Coast and its attractions were enough to justify the 22-hour, two- plane journey from New York (don't ask how long it took them!)  In hindsight, flying all together with Varig, Brazil's leading carrier, was so efficient and comfortable that the journey seemed like part of the vacation. 

Costa do Sauipe contains five international-calibre, lowrise, beachfront resorts (Breezes, a Sofitel Hotel, Sofitel Suites, the deluxe Renaissance and the five-star Marriott) comprising 1,461 rooms and suites. Clustered discreetly inland are several community activity centers for all ages and interests. A favorite of ours was the Nautical Center, which featured small boats and pedalos for rent at a man-made lagoon, plus a waterview cafe. The big draw was the Tiroleza, a tower with a Tarzan-like zipline slide that harnessed kids and parents could "fly"across. Additionally, the complex's free shuttle buses led to a sophisticated Equestrian Center offering riding lessons and a petting zoo/farm; an 18-hole standard PGA golf course; the tennis and soccer Sports Complex, and the charming newly-built replica of a colonial village called Vila Nova do Praia.  

Breezes is a Winner 

The favorite part of Costa do Sauipe for international families may be the white, pink and blue complex chosen by the Jamaica-based Superclubs chain. Having an all-inclusive, self-contained resort along with these other sports facilities and a lively pedestrian village made for the perfect family vacation. Both of our families felt safe, yet part of the local culture. Our surroundings were luxurious, contemporary, familiar and done with an ethnic flair. There was always something fun happening for every age group nearby, yet in a different and exotic locale. 

On the minus side, English-speaking families will find it difficult for their kids to make friends. The majority of staff and guests are very friendly Brazilians, so Spanish helps, but English is not widely spoken or particularly well understood. We can't wait for an improved global economy and better airlift to increase the number of international guests and multilingual staff. For now, the adventurous and self-contained family will find Costa do Sauipe offers terrific value for money and a wonderful vacation. 

Super Fun for All Ages

This Breezes offers a range of activities and amenities for many age groups, unlike other Superclubs Breezes resorts.  Costa do Sauipe's management explained that nearly 100% of guests age 0-17 years (up to 250 kids during the busiest family weeks) participate in some organized program. Infants and toddlers to age 4 have a cool and spotless nursery.

At our visit, kids from 4 to 12 were busy at tables outside the large, bright Kid's Club (800/702-0203) playroom, decorating cookie-cutter biscuits waiting to be whisked off to an oven. Their smiling faces, ranging in color from porcelain to mocha,  were dusted in powdered sugar.  Apparently, few kids stay the whole day, but many drop in on pool activities (the surf off the beautiful beach is too rough for young children to play in), trapeze lessons at the circus school, to have lunch with new friends, try handcrafts, or watch the evening's entertainment. Year-round, Breezes also provides a poolside Teen Lounge and more structured activities during the busy school breaks.

Easter in Brazil was an especially intense family holiday week, a multi-cultural celebration driven by the universal interest in chocolate.  From resort decorations, to a Nestle challenge in Vila Praia do Nova, to a wild Easter egg hunt, chocolate was the focus of contests, treasure hunts, athletic competitions and the like. When my son wanted to join the 8 to 12-year-olds' computer gaming hour, the counselors said that the big kids were accompanying the 4 to 7's group to the petting zoo and farm instead.  That sounded like fun, especially when we heard that each child took a paper cup filled with chocolate syrup to the farm, then filled it by milking the cows! 

Besides the children's clubs, Breezes offers a range of daily activities for all ages. You can sample fitness classes for the whole family; free bike rentals; the padded, inflatable boxing ring; see displays of crafts or programs like the Brazilian martial arts dance called capoeira; flying trapeze & trampoline clinics; merengue & reggae classes and more.  Parents who want to enjoy a child-free dinner at one of Breeze's terrific à la carte restaurants or a concert on the square at Villa Nova can book a private babysitter (you pay an hourly rate) to come to guest rooms.
 

Where Dining is a Pleasure

Premium restaurants are a Breezes hallmark. We made reservations on arrival at a picturesque Japanese grill called Manuhana, the Italian Pastafari and the brightly lit Market Place cafe. (We dread waiting with hundreds of hungry guests at big buffets, so it was a welcome relief to get freshly prepared, delicious meals at upscale, tablecloth eateries.) The variety of Brazilian foods, fruits and fresh tropical juices available at breakfast in the soaring open-air restaurant was impressive, but our favorite meal turned out to be the excellent lunch buffet of Brazilian specialties served at the fan-cooled, poolside grill.

Favorite Brazilian Dishes   Pâes de Queijó - Small round baked  cheese breads.   Feijoada - beans, meat and spicy  sausage casserole is typical peasant  fare.   Moqueca de Camarao - shrimp  cooked in mild coconut sauce   Cocada - over-sized Almond Joy - style coconut patties  Antarctica Guarana - carbonated passion fruit drink that was the most popular soda.

Tropical Nights

We never understood why Breezes has no evening outdoor dining and, on lovely tropical nights, we missed being out under the stars.  Not for long. On night two, we discovered that before 11pm, kids were welcomed in the disco. The friendly staff in Spandex pants, ruffled skirts and tiny bodices stood by to teach all comers the latest line dances. 

For those interested in exploring the local culture, it's wonderful to have Vila Nova do Praia nearby. Although we preferred the complimentary horse-drawn carriages, it was only a few minutes' sidewalk or beachfront walk from Breezes.  Villa Nova's small stucco pastel houses roofed in red tiles are actually six small pousadsas (little inns or pensions with B&B rooms).  There is a public, drop-in Kids Club, a fun play area and supervised amusement park with little electric Jeeps, slides, a trampolene and organized games, busiest in the early evening. The other two pedestrian lanes led to an old church, a town square in which free concerts are staged, crafts stands with artisans hard at work, casual clothing shops, outdoor cafes with ornate wrought-iron furniture, and several Brazilian restaurants.

One evening, we strolled into Vila Nova to hear Margareth Menezes, a top samba-reggae star robed in fuschia-colored chiffon and her lively band perform the music she had recorded with The Talking Heads.  Another night, the moms tried a moonlit  massage at the resort, but this was not as relaxing as we'd hoped. A family of tiny mico (a small local monkey) hang out around the health spa and tend to jump around when they lay clients out on their outdoor massage tables. Good grief!  

Around and About in Bahia

One excursion not to be missed is to the fishing village of Praia do Forte, which we visited with Marcos from the hotel's taxi service. Named for the ruined Portuguese fortress built to protect this colony from other Europeans, this is a one-street village whose traditional homes have been overtaken by craftsmen, wood workers, New Age shops, a Yoga studio, and boutiques. Our best buy was the popular Havaianas jewel-studded rubber thong sandals, which sold for only US$4 as opposed to the US$300 price tag quoted by the Vogue I read on the plane! Praia do Forte's roadside vendors, selling polished coconut shell purses and bright batik sarongs, had some of the best merchandise we saw. Although we didn't stop, Marcos told us the best dining was at Zequinha, Sabor do Vila for Brazilian food, and Cafe Tango for lighter fare such as burgers and dessert. 

At the coastal end of the small village is the Project Tamar station, one of several eco-stations funded by the Save the Turtles project to educate Brazilians about the importance of environmental conservation. It's a good cause. For some kids the giftshop will be the highlight, for others the small tanks of turtles and displays about the local marine environment in English and Portuguese. 

We also took a very long, full-day trip by bus to Salvador, Brazil's first capital from 1549 until 1763 (when the capital transferred to Rio de Janeiro). The city is best known for its historic buildings from the 16th to the 18th centuries, and a rousing Carnival tradition based on local "trios elétricos," trucks carrying stages and music bands through the streets to lead thousands of party-goers on parade. Additionally, Bahia's African heritage (it's a cultural "roots" destination for many African-Americans), its distinction as the only state in Brazil whose residents were never enslaved by the Portuguese (which is why African slaves were imported), the mystique of its Santerria religion, and the indigenous music popularized by David Byrne, Paul Simon and others, give the place a very special appeal. 

Day tourists flock to Pelourinho, the hillside Old Town of pastel stucco homes turned souvenir shops which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The principal Igreja Sao Francisco church dating from 1705 boasts an interior decorated with 800 tons of gold and a fully-functional monastery. All the children on our tour seemed to love its tiled courtyard, whose white and blue azulejos (painted Portuguese tiles) depict parables about mankind. All were rapt at the guide's narration, especially when she translated "Nothing Stops the Greedy" beneath the spectacular golden dome. Surrounded by soccer star Ronaldo and Team Brasil T-shirts, cafes, blooming acacia trees, tacky souvenirs and ice cream, Sao Francisco remains the dignified centerpiece of the cobblestoned upper village. 

The Bahiatursa Tourist Information office in Pelourinho (Rua from Laranjeiras,12;  071/321-2463 ; open daily 8am-10pm) has a good walking map of the area. From Pelourinho, a nearby marble terrace offers panoramic views over the glistening Bahia de Todos Santos and out to the island Somastelo Fortress protecting the lower city. Since 1870, an elevator has connected the city's two distinct levels for up to 25,000 passengers per day, who still pay only R$.05 for a ride.

Down below, along the waterfront, is Central Market, where you can pick up hammered tin souvenirs, folk art, CDs, Ronaldo and Team Brasil T-shirts, another pair of Havaianas sandals, and much, much more. Your tour bus will probably stop at the Farol de Barra, the lighthouse on the point, and it's a good place to stretch your legs and watch the locals swimming below.  

Searching for Eco-Tourism

After a delightful week, did we find Costa do Sauipe an example of environmentally-correct, sustainable tourism development?  Well... one local we met described the development as "the offspring of good intentions and real estate greed." At Breezes, the prominently displayed recycle bins were cleared daily. Beach garbage coming in with the tide was also removed daily.  According to the Costa do Sauípe Condominium, every two weeks, the neighboring beach extending from the mouth of the Sauípe River to beyond the Marriott Hotel (where we encountered serious litter) is cleaned and sure enough, they estimate 10  tons of waste--mostly organic--is removed monthly.  Although notecards in our guestroom promised that linens and towels would not be changed unless requested, fresh towels appeared not once, but twice (!) each day. However, the Condominium management explained that cleaning products are biodegradable, water is filtered from the adjacent Sauipe River, and only organic products are used in landscape and aerial pest control.

One important consideration of sustainable tourism is to create local employment opportunities. In the poor state of Bahia, the Costa do Sauípe Condominium says it "aims to employ [a majority of local people]." In 2003, about 45% of the 2,200 employees were local residents. According to them, the self-sustained Berimbau social program also benefits 6,500 people in neighboring communities. Eventually it seems, good intentions will win out.

In the short term, visitors longing to see Brazil's famously biodiverse ecosystems can join eco-tours outside the resort (available through BB Turismo, 55/71/ 464.2121; www.bbtur.com.br). The half-day Quadriciclo Tour allowed us to mount four-wheel ATVs for a noisy, unguided, and not particularly well supervised race through nearby woods. Exciting maybe, but certainly not eductional. Another family even found the lack of instruction in handling these powerful Polaris-made machines just plain dangerous.

Another afternoon we paddled in three-person "Canadian style canoes" -- boats the indigenous Amazonian Indians could have used -- and learned a great deal from Wagner, the eloquent naturalist working with Bahia Adventures Ecotourism (55 71 464-2525 ; www.bahiaadventure.com - R$65/US$22 pp).  He began our tour with the admonition, "Eco-tourism means a little bit of tired, a little bit of bugs, and a little bit of heat, and if you can accept this then you can be out in our environment."

Though there was little wildlife to see in the wetlands along the Imbassai River, it was a peaceful (if dull for the kids) journey. We stopped for a swim along an abandoned beach lined with coconut palms planted by Portuguese traders. They were brought in from Goa, India, Wagner explained, because Bahia's soil and climate were conducive to the new crop, which quickly became a staple of the diet and culture.  Wagner's sincere interest in the region and his easy-going teaching style with kids made the outing a highlight of our stay.

In lieu of another daytrip to try "sandboarding," the local sport of coasting down sand dunes on slick boards without footholds, we spent a half-day horseback-riding through Costa do Sauipe's arid scrub brush and around the fringes of the golf course. Horse-lovers will no doubt enjoy the Equestrian Center's fine facilities but on the "eco-tour" we took, there was no English-speaking guide to transmit an understanding of the local terrain, the region's flora and fauna, or even how this terrific family beach resort and environmental protection can successfully coexist.  

Details, Details

For more information about Costa do Sauipe, call their information center at 55/71/354.9696 or visit www.costadosauipe.com.br. Another good Brazil tourism site is run by the Washington, DC Embassy, at www.braziltourism.org. Breezes reservations can be made through a travel agent, the Superclubs North American sales office (800/GO-SUPER; 954/925-0925; www.superclubs.com), the UK sales office (44/20/8339-4150; superclubs@cwcom.net) or in Brazil (0 800/70 43 210, 55 71/463-1000; www.superclubs.com.br). Rates vary seasonally and packages including airfare are often available, all at a very reasonable cost competitive with all-inclusive rates in the Caribbean. 

Remember that Brazil is south of the equator, so their summer (December to April), winter break (July), Easter and national holidays are the busiest times; some Breezes facilities may close during non-peak weeks. The entire country is on one time zone; the sun was up from about 6am to 6pm during our stay. Along the Atlantic coast, the average temperatures year-round range from 73°F to 81°F (23-27°C), and it's typically dry and breezy. 

The Brazilian currency (R$) is the Real (pronounced "HAY-ahl") or Reais ("HAY-ice") for the plural. Parents should note that credit cards and cash are more widely accepted than traveler's checks, and ATMs are tough to find! Additionally, citizens of countries which require Brazilians to obtain entry visas (such as the US, which charges $100) must allow time to obtain a "reciprocal visa;"solo parents or non-parental guardians will need a notarized permission letter from birth parents to obtain a visa for children.

We cannot say enough about Varig Airlies, which flew us from New York to Sao Paolo, then to Salvador, then back to Rio de Janeiro and home, in business class, with great style and manners. They put the fun back in flying, and their rates are the best to this destination.
 

In 2003, Supeclubs announced that by summer 2004, the 253-suite Breezes Cumbuco was expected to open near Fortelezza. Additionally, a 252-room Starfish Mura Alto, the second in the chain's lower priced brand and likely to be a family property like the Starfish Trelawny in Jamaica, will open in Recife.  Visit www.breezes.com for updates on this construction.