Fairy tale forests and gnarly little gnomes rub shoulders with white-knuckle thrill rides at this fun-filled amusement park in the southwest of Holland. Plan to arrive the evening before you want to visit the park, so you can spend the night in one of the 19 special theme rooms at the adjacent Golden Tulip Efteling, informally known as the Floating Castle.

For classic fairytale atmosphere, opt for the Sleeping Beauty room (spinning wheel, canopy of briars, puppet theater) or the Hansel and Gretel room (lots of sweets!)

If you're traveling with a few I'm-too-old-for-this-nonsense teens, you can opt to stay in the Coca-Cola room, (Coke memorabilia, beds separated by an illuminated wall of empty coke bottles), the Fifties room (juke box, pinball machine, Chevy Bel Air head and foot board), or the golf room (private putting green, although there is a real 18-hole golf course.)

My husband wanted to stay in the Laaf Suite or the Brewer's room where the wardrobes are real beer barrels and beer taps regulate the room lighting, but the kids and I nixed the idea.

After a buffet breakfast with the very fairy tale characters you'll hear more about in the park, head through your own special entrance into Efteling Park. The Fairy Tale Forest is the original part and even at 50 years old, it's still charming. Be sure to brush up on your popular fairy tales before you go, so you'll all understand references to more obscure stories.

Make time to catch the award-winning Fairy Tale Show, and then choose from a variety of rides and entertainment: favorites include a pedal train, a nostalgic steam carousel, a Swiss bobsled run, puppet shows, and several roller coasters--including one completely in the dark.

For a quick snack, stop at the 't Poffertje stall to sample tiny traditional Dutch pancakes.

Golden Tulip Efteling Hotel Kaatsheuvel, Netherlands www.efteling.nl; 31/416 288 111    $ - $$$   depending on season. Theme Park Pass US$30/person, kids <4 free.      A-      A      B      B Extra Credit:  Rub elbows with strolling fairy princesses and wandering wicked witches. Comments:  After breakfast, young guests can help the fairy tale characters feed the fish in the hotel's castle moat.