Sandwiched between active parents and active kids, I like to plan 'soft adventure' destinations for annual family reunions. In someplace new, we can explore together with parents who might never venture there alone, and with our children, who love to see the Oldies play Indiana Jones. From Belize to the Florida Keys, our family's under-10s through over-70s have birded, kayaked and hiked gentle slopes in search of nature's beauty, a good meal and a comfortable hammock - our version of quality time.

The small Central American country of Belize (formerly British Honduras) is unexpectedly rich in marine, rain forest and jungle experiences, all of which are easily accessible. More civilized than exotic, Belize is a great ecotourism destination for adults and curious children 5 years and older. Because the central region of rivers, waterfalls and rain forest experiences heavy precipitation June to October, it boasts dense foliage, abundant birds, monkeys and insect life.  These are a few eco-lodges, in Belize, Florida and Panama, that I recommend for your family.

Jungle-clad Rivers & Mayan Ruins of Belize

Lodge at Chaa Creek
Reservations Office: P.O. Box 53
San Ignacio, Cayo District, Belize
(501/824-2037; US toll free: 877/709-8708)
This resort compound outside the scruffy town of San Ignacio, winner of environmental awards from the World Travel and Tourism Council, American Society of Travel Agents, Caribbean Travel & Life and others, offers 23 well-decorated, thatch-roof cottages above Chaa Creek.  Most recently built are two deluxe one-bedroom "Tree Top Suites" perched in the hardwood trees above the Macal River, each with accommodations for four.  Chaa Creeks' 365-acre nature preserve also includes a health spa featuring treatments using botanicals in the resort's rainforest, whose recipe is said to come from traditional Mayan shamans. The budget and eco-conscious Macal River Jungle Camp is a rustic alternative to the cottage suites, with fixed canvas tents, cots with linens, and common bathing and dining halls. The main lodge's stylish bar and terrific restaurant are a meeting place, even for those in the camp. The staff are wonderfully knowledgeable, friendly, and great with kids: gently placing a butterfly on our son's wrist, pointing out a visiting scorpion, scarlet macaw or howler monkey, leading flashlight-illuminated nature walks, giving rides along bumpy dirt roads in an open pickup truck, even demonstrating tortilla-making. 

The very fit can hike the nearby Vaca Caves (site of an underground Mayan pottery) or the hilltop Mayan temple of Xunantunich. More sedentary types will love river canoeing or exploring the Natural History Centre and Butterfly House. Although daytrips are surprisingly expensive, Chaa Creek's staff work hard to make local wildlife, bird-viewing and the pristine environment accessible to all ages. Seemingly high (for Belize) rates are good value here and there are special meal plans for children under 12.

The Lodge at Chaa Creek is also starting The Mac Morpho Kids Program every Saturday for the summer 2008 for
environmentalists between the ages of 6-15.  The program offers participants the opportunity to get in touch with the rainforest they are vacationing in.  Each family will hatch their own Blue Morpho butterfly, to be released into the jungle.  Children can partake in a "Nature Rules" treasure hunt where they will learn about the wildlife around them and the importance of environmental conservation.  Other components of the program include: a horseback ride to ancient Mayan temples, as well as a canoe trip along the Macal River culminating in a visit with a family from the Cristo Rey village.  Parents can join their children in arts and crafts and any of the other activities the program offers.  They may even bump into Mac Morpho, the Lodge's environmentally friendly emissary, while exploring the 365-acre Nature Reserve. 

Other, less-posh, lodges in the Cayo District recommended by families: Clarissa Falls Cottages (501/804-3916); duPlooy's (501/804-3101; fax. 501/824-3301). 

Chan Chich
Mail: P.O. Box #37
Belize City, Belize, Central America
(501/223-4419; in the USA 800/343-8009)
From San Ignacio, a whirring prop plane took us north to Gallon Jug for a surprisingly different nature experience. More than 250,000 acres host this lush, tropical jungle resort, as well as the eco-agricultural experiments of its owners, the wealthy Belizean Bowen family. The 12 very chic guest bungalows snuggle in amongst a circle of grass-covered Mayan burial mounds which still evoke an eery dignity. Ceiba trees filled with squawking buccaneer birds mask the fact that few of the huge, old mahogany trees which dominated the surrounding forest still exist. Yet in the midst of a region devastated by logging, the Bowens have used development to enforce agriculture and ecologically-strict management policies. Old logging roads are kept manicured by resort guides, who lead thrice daily walks around the property to look for toucans, the occasional jaguar, tayras and jungle fauna and to explain Mayan history to visitors.

All ages loved the cacophony of bird and monkey cries, the privacy of neighboring bungalows, sit-down meals made from fresh local ingredients (plus an imaginative kids' menu), and the opportunity to relax at the pretty, screened-in pool. Guided day and night walks are offered. Although only the delightful Gilberto was able to keep kids interested, avid birders were in heaven! Bungalows sleeping two to four people in two queen beds run about US$200/N depending on season; children <12 free. The full meal plan is reasonably priced and essential as the cottages are so isolated. 

Other lodges recommended by families we met are Blancaneaux (501/824-3878; in the USA 800/746-3743) and Lamanai Outpost (888/733-7864). 

Flora & Fauna in the Florida Keys

Cheeca Lodge
81801 Overseas Hwy. MM 82
Islamorada, FL 33036
(800/327-2888, 305/664-4651)
Junior naturalists and less adventurous grandparents will relish a learning vacation at the Key's most elegant and toney resort. With a recently completed multi-million dollar renovation, it offers crisp Ralph-Lauren style and fine, kid-friendly dining. Many families pass up the more luxurious main hotel for the one- and two-bedroom apartment blocks. Units with full kitchens have screened balconies which overlook the tennis courts or 9-hole golf course, ideal for those who'd rather watch than participate. An award-winning eco-resort, Cheeca posts discreet signs in each room about saving water and reusing sheets and towels. You'll have to go to nearby Lorelei's for conch fritters because Key Conch is an endangered species, and a strict Catch n' Release fishing policy is suggested to all Cheeca guests. 

Daytrips include a fun Enviro-Tour by speed boat to uninhabited neighboring keys, snorkeling, and kayak tours in the very gentle Gulf.  Despite Cheeca's two large swimming pools, the shallow natural lagoon provided hours of low-key amusement, with kids tickling hermit crabs and chasing minnows while adults sipped piña coladas. Supervised children's activities range from the top-notch tennis pros who run kids' clinics, to a friendly golf pro who will putt with over-6's, to private babysitting. A daily-in-season Camp Cheeca (ages 5-12) stresses ecology on nature walks and seashell hunts, though less successfully in summer, when it's also a daycamp for local Keys families. Best yet, it provides time for adults to loll around the adults-only outdoor pool or soak up the wellness treatments at the Avanyu Spa. "Kids' Night Out" is also available for children 5-12 to enjoy on Friday and Saturday evenings from 6 to 10pm.  Children can play with arts and crafts, have a pizza dinner, and watch movies.

Rates at Cheeca Lodge range from under $200/N to over $400/N depending on season and room type. 

Next Year Panama?

I still can't tell a Ruddy Crake from a Sooty Tern, but I've learned to love those bad hair days that come with humid, birder-friendly tropical climates.

The Canopy Tower
Semaphore Hill Road
Soberania National Park
Panama
(507/264-5720, toll free US: 800/930-3397)
Just 30 minutes' drive from Panama City lies the Soberania National Park, a rain forest the Nature Conservancy claims has countless species of plants and 283 species of birds. Within this reputedly pristine eco-paradise is an eco-resort built inside a former US Air Force radar installation. Guests in uniquely rustic doubles (private hot showers, and recycled water flow toilets) supposedly have a bird's eye view of the rain forest canopy, a Nirvana wingless birders will never attain. 

If you want a new brochure, get in touch with the owners, Canopytower Ecolodge through email: birding@canopytower.com. Although children under 15 require prior approval from their management, I have already requested mine.