Combine a century-old, Tuscan-style villa with land Thomas Jefferson called the “Eden of the United States” under the careful hand of the Orient-Express Hotels company, and what do you get?  The classy, clubby Keswick Hall on the outskirts of Charlottesville, Virginia is a wonderful place to catch your breath, with or without the kids.

Included on numerous best-of lists, Keswick Hall’s charm lies in its accessible luxury and surprisingly large number of diversions for its small size (48 rooms).  The antithesis of the cookie cutter concept, each uniquely decorated room looks out over Virginia hunt country, and combines the best of modern amenities with the feel of gentler times.

After a decade, Orient-Express, proprietors of distinctive hotels, trains and cruises, took over Keswick Hall from the Laura Ashley Company, which had created the resort the early 1990s.  In its inimitable fashion, Orient-Express restyled each room with antiques and armoires instead of closets.

They added a lovely infinity pool (an Orient-Express signature) surrounded by lavender and butterfly bushes, and built a club house with a spa and fitness center, meeting rooms, indoor/outdoor pool, golf pro shop and hunt country bar/restaurant.

The property’s 600 acres and facilities easily could accommodate more guests, so the company plans to double the number of rooms by adding guest cottages.

Catering to Refined or Childish Palates

Public rooms vary from the clubby Snooker Room with a billiard table to the comfortable Morning Room parlor to the refined Fossett’s dining room.  While not too chi-chi for children, parents may find their children behaving a bit more... well... civilized in the face of afternoon tea, four poster beds and chocolate truffles and shortbread at turn down.

Fossett’s serves a lovely, upscale buffet breakfast that also caters to children’s needs, varying from eggs benedict and premium cheeses to breakfast cereal and fruit and yogurt. The restaurant really shines in the evening, with its floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the rolling hills of the Arnold Palmer golf course.  The modern menu by Chef John Brand (formerly of the Little Nell in Aspen) draws many locals and looks out for kids’ tastes, too.

The Palmer Room in the clubhouse has a more casual hunt country feel and menu and is open for snacks, lunch and dinner. 

Drinks and snacks also are available during the day at the new pavilion pool (Memorial Day to Labor Day) that was designed with families in mind, including a baby pool and volleyball.

Recreation & Pampering: Babies to Elders

For those with teeny tikes, Keswick Hall’s “Baby Butler” service provides a welcome package and assists by warming bottles, serving baby food specially prepared by Chef John and providing knapsacks, strollers, rocking chairs, toys, miniature bathrobes and personalized cribs in the guests’ room.  Board games, books, coloring books, and movies are at hand (simply ask before you arrive), as well as names of local babysitters.

Keswick Hall has a nice outdoor tennis center with five lit courts (three hard surface, two Har-tru), and guests can fish (fly and cast) at the property’s Broadmoor Lake.  Nearby is horseback riding, skeet shooting, hiking and mountain biking in the Blue Ridge Mountains and white water rafting on the James River, as well as President Thomas Jefferson's estate at Monticello, the town of Montpelier, downtown Charlottesville and more than 25 local vineyards. For the snowy months, the Wintergreen Ski Resort is only 55 minutes down the road.

We actually planned to take advantage of some of these nearby amenities, such as the hip little restaurants in Charlottesville. Instead, we found ourselves simply lounging around the property for the most part, swimming in the lovely pools, basking under the sun in the outdoor whirlpool, working out in the fitness center, walking the grounds and gardens, playing tennis (or trying to – it rained), taking tea in the parlor and tasting wines and tapas in the cute little bar. 

Our 12-year-old daughter Maddy got the vibe, too, and simply chilled out in the lap of luxury.  Smart kid.

Details, Details

Keswick Hall is located at 701 Club Drive in Keswick, Virginia in the shadow of the Blue Ridge Mountains. If you're driving southwest from Washington DC, as we did, you can take Interstate 66 west to the Gainesville exit, then the more scenic Route 29 south to Culpeper. From here, take Route 15 to Gordonsville, then Route 231 till it meets Route 22 west at Cismont. Pass the Keswick town post office and approach the estate on Route 744.

Rates start at $265/N midweek through May 31. Most rooms have either one king or one queen bed, although a few have two twins.  Be sure to request connecting rooms in advance, if required, as these are very limited. For more information and reservations, contact your travel agent or the inn directly (800/274-5391, 434/979-3440; www.keswick.com).