Only half the size of Maine, tiny Holland began as a fishing village in the center of Europe's marshy lowlands. After the founding of the VOC (Verenigde Oost Indische or Dutch East India Company) in 1602, overseas commerce and conquest became Holland's main source of wealth. Holland and the Netherlands Antilles (Bonaire, Curaçao, Sint Maarten, St. Eustatius, Saba) are remnants of the Dutch empire also known as The Netherlands. Its picturesque capital, Amsterdam, is a thriving city of 17th-century homes encircled by canals emanating from the Amstel River. Families with younger children may want to bypass Amsterdam's legal Red Light District (half nude women lounging in glass display windows or doorways), the Homomonument, brown bars where hashish is traded, and other eye-opening aspects of this ultra-liberal city. Fortunately, those who narrow their focus to Amsterdam's maritime culture and excellent art museums won't be disappointed. The VVV Tourist Office is a great resource, but what follows is the FTF short list of favorites spots to see.

For for Little Ones

(up to 8 years)

Netherlands Maritime Museum Amsterdam
(+31 (0) 20 5232 222)
"Pirates, ahoy! Ahoy, thee pirates! I'm coming!" So calls out 10-year-old Harold from Manchester, England, as he races down the pier to the the beautiful 1749-era M/S Amsterdam. The full-size cargo ship is a replica of VOC vessels used to trade with former Dutch colonies. Today, safely moored on the Amstel River outside this museum, it is Amsterdam's favorite playground. Inside, the enormous museum is a bounty of ships' models: antique sailboats, schooners, warships and pleasure craft and outside, artillery and cannons have become sturdy objects to climb on. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am-5pm, except in the summer when it is open seven days a week. [Editor's Note: The Netherlands Maritime Museum is expected to emerge from a total renovation in 2009. Once it reopens, the museum will be able to accommodate the recent increase in visitors, provide easier access to exhibits and allow thale 350-year-old building to have climate control.]

Tropenmuseum
Linnaeusstraat 2 next to Oosterpark
(+31 (0) 20 5688 200)
This collection of ethnographic displays of life in Batavia (now Jakarta, Indonesia ruled by the Dutch for 150 years), Africa, Latin America, and the Caribbean (all conquered by the WIC/ West India Company) includes life-like exhibits embellished with photo collages and indigenous music in a surround-sound learning environment. Huts, yurts, longboats and more are peopled by costumed wax figures from various cultures. The Kindermuseum (+31 (0)20 5688 711) is within the building, and offers multicultural children's activities in Dutch only, by reservation only. The 90-minute sessions given Wednesday, weekends, and over school holidays are only for kids 6-12. The fun continues nearby at the Dappermarkt Street Market, the city's cheapest flea market.

Artis Zoo
Plantage Kerklaan 38-40
1018 CZ Amsterdam
(+31 (0) 20 5233 400)
Artis is Amsterdam's zoo and botanical garden rolled into one large center city park. There are a variety of animal habitats to satisfy most animal lovers, and we especially like the Predator Habitat at the Kerbert Terrace, occupied by wild cats since the 1920s. In addition to many native plants and trees, visitors will also delight in the Artis flower collection, including the country's famed tulips. Let the kids know that they'll see as many plant species as animals. Don't miss the oak next to the outdoor chimpanzee enclosure; it's thought to be 250-years old. There are also two large ginkgos with fan-shaped leaves planted near the statue of Buddha in the Japanese Stone Garden. The entry ticket isn't cheap, but if you plan a full day here you can visit the Planetarium, Geological Museum, and Aquarium too. Note that English language tours are given every Sunday morning.

Fun for Older Kids

(8 to 16)

Anne Frankhuis
Prinsengracht 267
(+31 (0) 20 5567 100)
This row house nestled alongside a quiet canal was home to the celebrated teen author Anne Frank. Her stirring diary of life under the Nazi terror was discovered after her death and has been translated into 55 languages. Words cannot convey the experience of touring the family's secret chambers; it's as evocative for children as it is for adults. Look into booking tickets online, as the lines can be very long to get in. Around the corner, somehow appropriate, is the Greenpeace Shop (Leliegracht 53, Centrum) with neat-for-teens beach towels, souvenirs, T-shirts and more.

The Van Gogh Museum
Paulus Potterstraat 7
(+31 (0) 20 5705 200)
This admittedly remarkable collection is a tough-to-justify stop on any youngster's itinerary, though severed ear stories may give you enough time to glide through several galleries. Fans of Van Gogh will be delighted at the breadth of the collection (largely made up of loans from private Japanese collectors), which showcases the diversity of talent exhibited by this painter before depression overcame him. Use your IAmsterdam Card for an admission discount and you'll feel free to drop by for a quick look.

Amsterdams Historisch Museum
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357
Kalverstraat 92
1001 AC Amsterdam
(+31 (0) 20 523 1822)
The Amsterdam Historical Museum has occupied the former Civic Orphanage building since 1926, showcasing archeological finds and objects from the daily life of residents dating back to 1250. Its hidden location is the perfect starting point for a walking tour of this fascinating part of town. All ages can appreciate the museum's sophisticated interactive displays before heading out to explore the surrounding lanes, few of which see the tourist hordes found on Dam Square. Woven between the traditional canal houses and religious structures are light-filled galleries, covered walkways and canals filled with coot, small black waterfowl who agressively nest on houseboat anchors and boat bumpers. Back in the 7th century, Amsterdam was a city of fewer than 80,000 inhabitants, and Beginjhof Lane, its gardens and the English Reformed Church in the museum’s neighborhood transport visitors back to this era. The original red brick residences for single Catholic women are here, across from the Beginjhof Kapel, a Catholic chapel opened after the church became Presbyterian after the Reformation. Look up to see how the sculpted gable stones denote the occupation of each house’s original owner. Wooden houses are often more than a century older.

NeMo
Oosterdok 2
+31 (0) 20 5313 233
NEMO is a fabulous, blue-green building designed to look like a ship’s bow jutting out over the water in the city's Docklands neighborhood. Hands-on activities teach visitors about the sciences and technology in an exciting four-story space, with exhibits covering many fields of science, technology and engineering. NeMo welcomes all ages, but their target audience is 4 to 16-year-olds, and their parents.

Fun for the Whole Family

As charming as Amsterdam is, easy-to-locate transportation and well-sign-posted streets are not its strong suit. That's why booking a privately guided city tour is the best way to maximize sightseeing for the family with limited time. If this is beyond your budget, consider a guided group tour by bike or canal boat.

Culture & City Guide: Bregte Viergever
0031/6 4226 4139; viergever@planet.nl
On our summer 2008 visit, we had the pleasure of touring the “hidden” city (ie: older alleys and historic lanes) witwith professional art historian Bregte Viergever. She tirelessly brought the city, its history and the art of Rembrandt and Van Gogh to life for all ages in our group. Bregte’s specialty with families is a full-day city cycle tour; she rents the bikes and leads the way on an unforgettably fun and educational outing. Her rates are Euros €164/half day or €275/full day with or without bike rentals.

Yellow Bike Guided Tours
(+31 (0) 20 6206 940)
"Yikes, Bikes!" Amsterdam's official bike lanes parallel the sidewalks, so pedestrians always have to look both ways before venturing into the street. In a city with 1,200 bridges and more than 550,000 bicycles, a guided tour by bike might be just your family's speed. Yellow Bike offers 3-hour city rides and 6-hour countryside rides. Holland is a delightfully flat country and these are excursions that even young children can manage. There are also many bike rental shops in different neighborhoods and, especially on weekends when traffic is quieter, children can manage the bike lanes easily.

Flower Market : Bloemenmarkdt
Singel
1071 AZ Amsterdam
The Flower Market, especially in spring and summer, is a canalside treat of color and frangrance. In addition to beautiful cut flowers and houseplants, families will find silly souvenirs ranging from tiny Delft blue ceramic clogs to plastic windmills and coffee mugs. Ignore the tulips or other flower bulbs; readers planning to bring them into the US should only buy at the airport, where florists have them "certified" to clear US Customs' stringent agricultural laws. Other easy-to-carry gifts include Dutch biscuits and packets of those wonderful colored sprinkles that the Dutch serve on breakfast toast; there's a grocery store at Schipol Airport.

Rijksmuseum
Jan Luijkenstraat 1
(+31 (0) 20 6747 000)
Though famous for its Dutch Renaissance collection, this museum with its varied collections, is much more successful with kids. Although only a small pavilion is open until restoration of the huge galleries is complete in 2012, it's easy to tour. Once all the collection is reopened, be sure to admire the intricate miniatures and the awesome 17th-century "Doll's House of Petronella Oortman," all fascinating for anyone over age 5. The Asiatic Art collection features some X-men style Japanese Edo armor worn by samurai and kris, Indonesian curved-blade swords thought to bring magical powers to the wearer. Best of all is the Dutch History collection; arms and armor left by explorers from an Arctic expedition of 1597, nine huge models of VOC trading ships, and the double-decker William Rex man-of-war ship. If you don't wish to explore on your own, for €1 your kids ages 6-12 can take the tour with Gordon the Warden. They will be led through the museum in search of five masterpieces: the aforementioned model ships and doll's house, as well as two portraits of Amsterdam's most powerful citizens, a fine mess by Jan Steen and finally Rembrandt's "The Night Watch." Tickets for this exciting pursuit through the Rijksmuseum are sold at the Information Desk, and the gardens and fountains can be enjoyed afterwards.

Holland International Canal Cruises
Central Station Pier
(+31 (0) 20 625 3035)
This company offers traditional guided canal tours in the historic center of the city, as well as cruises through the Eastern Docklands neighborhood, supper cruises and more, on comfortable, air-conditioned sightseeing boats. Families can do some of this cruising on their own by hopping on a Canal Bus, the public ferry system that departs from the Central Station and sails throughout the city. We recommend an early visit to Central Station, a large train terminal with flower, film, and shoe-repair shops, banks, phone card vendors, the main trolley terminal, canal boat piers, and a VVV Tourist Office. Don't hesitate to look for brochures and essential maps. They sell the Amsterdam Pass, a terrific value; providing discounted transport and tours, free or discounted museum admissions, restaurant bargains, and even a city map.