The West Country of England is one of the country's premier vacation destinations. Popular with both the British and foreigners, it seems to embody that pastoral dream of the English countryside. Charming villages, half-timbered cottages, castles, stately homes and ancient stone circles - all are to be found here. This is country for walking or horseback riding. English food, despite its terrible reputation, is at its height here: Cheddar cheese, Devon cream teas, apple ciders - "Scrumpy" - and an abundance of fresh berries and fruits. The West of England is sure to entertain and fascinate you.

Devon, Dorset and Cornwall are the counties of the south coast. Each grows wilder the further west that you travel. Cornwall to the far west still echoes of another time. The Celtic Cornish were the last people within England to be conquered by their Anglo-Saxon neighbors. The accents are different and the land, at least by English standards, is quite rugged with rocky shorelines once inhabited by smugglers and pirates. Dartmoor, with its wild ponies and infamous prison makes up the interior of the county. North from the coast are the counties of Somerset, the mythical land of Avalon, and Wiltshire, site of many prehistoric constructs of which Stonehenge is the most famous, but not the largest. Further north lie the Cotswolds and the "Heart of England", the Shakespearean counties of Avon, Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire. There are so many things to see in western England that books could be written on the subject - and have been. We will only briefly describe areas that may be of particular interest to children and would strongly recommend the purchase of a good guidebook to the area.

Historic and Archaeological Sites

Historically, some of Britain's oldest monuments are to be found here. Stonehenge near Salisbury is one of the world's most famous ancient sites. Rising from the open plains it is quite impressive and worth a journey. Twenty miles to the north lies the town of Avebury. Here the ancient builders constructed a cruder, but far larger mystery. A huge ring almost 1/2 mile in diameter surrounds this small town. Large stones - many 20 feet high - make up the circle. It is all surrounded by a ditch and earth walls of giant dimensions. Like Stonehenge, we have no real idea of the meaning of these "standing stones", many smaller examples of which are scattered about the area. Ancient and modern peoples have also used the land to create great works of art. Beneath the green turf, the soil is made of white chalk, and when the grass is scraped away, it reveals its gleaming color. "Drawings" of horses, many of them 50 feet long, dot the hillsides of Wiltshire. Most unique, and surely the only "R"-rated archaeological wonder, is the Cerne Giant in the small Dorset town of Cerne Abbas. This hundred-foot-high chalk fellow clearly displays his male attributes. In the same area is Maiden Castle, the largest hill fort in Britain. Just south of the small city of Dorchester, it was a good sized town until the Romans cleared out the residents and founded Dorchester. This, incidentally, points out an interesting fact - all cities or towns with the "chester" or "caster" in their names were founded by the Romans as forts - "castrum"

The Romans conquered this same area and made it their own. The small city of Gloucester still follows the Roman street plan which is marked by bricks in the sidewalks. Nearby is the Roman villa of Chedworth where one can trace the ancient floors and see the sophisticated heating system known as a "hypocaust". Probably the greatest Roman ruins are to be found in the city of Bath. This small spa town has been popular for its waters for over three thousand years since its mythical discovery by the father of King Lear. The Roman Baths from the ancient city of Aquae Sulis are still quite intact with the very old pools open to the public for viewing. Underground, the archaeologists have uncovered the core of the ancient city and one can still see the temples and forums while walking in subterranean caverns beneath the streets of the modern city. Bath itself was mainly constructed in the 18th century and provides a picture-perfect model town for strolling in while above ground also.

The Search for King Arthur

As the Romans withdrew, England generated its most powerful and persistent myth - King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table. People have often debated whether this story has any historical authenticity, but here in the West Country there is no question about it. Glastonbury is the center of Arthurian legends. It is the reputed site of Avalon and is, without a doubt, a center of ancient British culture. Glastonbury Abbey, destroyed by Henry VIII, is a spectacular ruin in the center of town. Here in the remains of the transept is the reputed grave of Arthur and Guenivere. "Discovered" by monks in the tenth century it is the source of the title "The Once and Future King".

In the same garden grows a "miraculous" thorn bush planted by Joseph of Arimethea, bearer of the Holy Grail. As you can see, all that is lacking is Indiana Jones. Far to the west, in Cornwall, lies Tintagel Castle. This dramatic ruin on a point over the stormy sea is the supposed spot of Arthur's conception. Here the daughter of the King of Cornwall was enchanted by Merlin who later found himself locked in the same tower. The likelihood of this myth's reality is obviously slight, but the setting is beautiful and one can always dream.

In a more medieval vein, the West is not so full of castles as are some other parts of England. One of the best is Warwick Castle just north of Stratford, which is a particularly beautiful castle in excellent condition. It is a little touristy - e.g. Madame Tussaud's waxworks scattered about - but it has some good dungeons, some wonderfully intact walls hanging over the nearby river and some nicely restored apartments. Like many popular attractions, early arrival is advised. Less intact, but with some special attributes is Sudeley Castle. Located on the western edge of the Cotswolds, this castle is half in ruins. It figured in the intrigues of the Tudor court as it was the residence of the widowed Katherine Parr after the death of Henry VIII and the brief abode of the ill-fated Lady Jane Grey who lost her head to her family's anti-Elizabethan plotting - she went to the block in the Tower, so here is a little bit of double history. The ruins are quite romantic, and the intact parts have some interesting memorabilia. There is a small maze in the garden and occasional falconry shows - don't worry, they chase dummies not living animals.

Stately Homes and Gardens

"Butterfly Garden" at Longleat House
The West is short on castles, but long on "stately homes". This phrase refers to the manorial residences of the nobility after the need for feudal defenses had passed. Most were built between 1700 and 1900. They are characterized by Baronial rooms, Palladian architecture and extensive gardens. They can be quite spectacular, though they can quickly wear thin for children. Many of the most famous in the west include Stourhead with its pseudo-classic "follies"; BlenheimPalace, home to the Churchills and largest home in England; and Longleat House, the residence of the Duke of Bath and the ultimate in stately homes. As the English aristocracy collapsed, they began to search for ways to sustain these vast estates and Longleat did the best job of it. First there is the animal park. One drives one's car through beautiful pastoral settings filled with elephants, giraffes, etc. In most areas, one must stay in the car, but in the entrance areas you can get out and walk near the giraffes. This is one of the absolute highlights of England for children - mine still speak about it years later with awe in their voice.

When you finish the drive there is still the manor house. It is surrounded by even more attractions - adventure playground, maze, train, boat rides and on and on. It is a little overdone, but lots of fun and your kids will love it. Gardens are another major destination to tourists. These can also wear thin for children, but one particularly nice one is found at Hidcote Gardens which lies on the west side of the Cotswolds. The garden is divided into "rooms" - a water garden, a white garden, a topiary garden and many more. The effect is very small and personal. These are gardens that one could imagine having if you had time and money enough, and will be an inspiration that you will bring back with you.

Other Interesting Excursions

Tudor Style, Stratford-on-Avon
There are many other points of interest in the area too numerous to describe in detail, but, briefly, some to note are: Cadbury Castle north of Dorchester, the chief reputed location for Camelot, Wells, a small city with a beautiful cathedral containing a clock with moving figures and trained swans, Cheddar Gorge, the deepest gorge in Britain and home to the famous cheese, and, 20,000 years ago, Paleolithic cave dwellers. Wookey Hole, near Cheddar is a large complex of caves through which you can take guided tours. Stratford-on-Avon, needs no introduction. It can be rather crowded, but try boating on the Avon (boats are for hire right at the bridge in the center of town), punting is for the strong, motor boats are for those who wish to take it a little easier. There is a brass-rubbing center just behind the theater, if you did not do this in London. Lyme Regis is a resort town on the southern coast which was the setting for the "French Lieutenants's Woman," and the site of the world's first dinosaur find. Walk along the shore and you can pick up fossils of sea creatures that fall from the cliffs above. Giant Ammonite fossils are used as stones in walls and houses throughout the town. The Beatrix Potter Museum in Gloucester (539/436 355) is adjacent to the truly beautiful cathedral, and housed in the very building used as the model in her book "The Tailor of Gloucester". It is small and cute - what else? - and the building is virtually unchanged from the 19th century illustrations.

As you can see, there are enough things in the West Country to keep a family busy for quite a lot of time. There are also many other things to see that might not appeal strongly to children, but will to you. After all, if you even do 1/2 of these things, your children should be willing to compromise and do some things that are of greater interest to you. This is a wonderful part of the world to enjoy.

Accommodations and Tourist Information

England has some of the most varied options for accommodations of any country: manor houses, coaching inns, modern hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, there is an abundance of choices. England is the originator of the bed-and-breakfast concept. Generally they consist of rooms for rent in someone's house. They are not usually all "tarted up" with chintz and lace as they are in America, but very straightforward, rather frumpy, middle class housing. Some particularly nice options are found on farms where our children have been allowed to nurse the baby goats or collect the eggs. Breakfast in England is generally large, consisting of eggs, bacon, fried toast and baked tomato - enough to set one up for the rest of the morning. A note of caution: Though they are often thought of as the budget alternative, this is not always so for families. B&B's charge by the guest instead of a flat room rate like a hotel. When four or five members of a family are all totaled up, what seemed cheap has grown to be quite a bit pricier.

Inns are in every medium sized town. Often from several hundred years ago these embody all the charm that one looks for in England. Many times they are half-timbered and with walls and floors at every sort of angle these can be wonderful places to stay. They often contain restaurants and pubs harking back to their historic roles as coaching establishments for travelers in the past. Many are now owned by large chains such as Forte that also have modern alternatives in the cities.

One of the greatest aids to travelers is the Tourist Information Network of Britain. These organizations can be found in even small towns. Generally in a central location they are sign posted with an "i" and are usually well-marked and invaluable. They will find you a place to stay in town or in the neighboring countryside that would probably be impossible to encounter otherwise. One can specify a price range, style of accommodation, etc. Also, in many towns they will book you a room for the following night's stay so that one does not have to spend the next day's journey thinking about it. The system actually exists throughout most of Europe and can be a life-saver in many situations.

England is also the inventor of the "self catering" stay. This refers to rental of a house, apartment, etc. for a holiday stay. Usually these rentals are for 1 week at a time - most commonly from Saturday to Saturday. It is very popular throughout England and the West Country is particularly full of options as it is such a favorite destination for Britons. There is a lot of extra space for a family with multiple bedrooms, gardens, etc. One is on one's own, but it allows you to share in the life of an area as you visit the "shops" or the "local". Many companies exist for this purpose throughout England and an especially unique English option can be found through the Landmark Trust, in Maidenhead (628/ 825 925) which preserves, restores and rents out historic buildings ranging from Gothic towers, to Bath townhouses to a Medieval gatehouse. There are over 175 properties available to the daring and imaginative - and quick moving - traveler.

England Overland: Escorted Bikes and Hikes

The scenic, gently rolling countryside and the proximity of small towns makes England a great hiker's destination with younger children. Families can walk The Peddars Way & Norfolk Coast Path National Trail, which are two paths that join together for 150 kms of landscape, coastal scenes, and windmills. With several circular walks, you can find other things to do away from the trail. If you contact the BritishTourist Authority ( 800/462-2748) you'll find a wealth of information about B&Bs and other budget-conscious lodging, plus an online do-it-yourself guide with regional walking trails within England, Scotland and Wales under the "Touring Ideas" section of their site.

Dan Hallinan, a retired travel agent and author, is the father of three.